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Cover the pan with a layer of parchment paper, then a layer of aluminum foil. Bake for 35 minutes, then uncover the pan and continue baking until bubbling and gooey, about 10 more minutes. Let the pan stand at room temperature for 5 minutes.

Summer Lasagna

with Fresh Mozzarella,

Sausage, and Basil

This lasagna starts with a basic tomato sauce. But there’s no cheese filling, just strips of mozzarella and fresh basil leaves layered with sausage. Makes 8 servings

For the Tomato Sauce:

¼ cup olive oil

2 medium onions, chopped

6 garlic cloves, minced

4 pounds Roma or plum tomatoes (16 to 18 tomatoes), roughly chopped

2 tablespoons chopped oregano leaves

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons tomato paste

For the Casserole:

1 tablespoon olive oil

¾ pound sweet Italian pork, chicken, or turkey sausage

Six 12 × 5-inch sheets fresh homemade pasta, 9 no-boil lasagna noodles, or 12 to 15 dried lasagna noodles

24 basil leaves, cut into thin strips

1 pound fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

To make the tomato sauce, heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in 1/4 cup olive oil, then add the onions and cook until softened, about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the garlic and cook just until aromatic, about 20 seconds.

Add the tomatoes, oregano, sugar, salt, and pepper. Bring the sauce to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the tomatoes break down and the sauce thickens, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste.

Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in 1 tablespoon olive oil, then add the sausage. The moment the sausage starts to frizzle, reduce the heat somewhat and continue cooking until the sausages are browned on all sides, about 8 minutes, turning every so often. Transfer the sausages to a cutting board and let them stand for a few minutes until you can easily cut them into thin rings.

If you’re using fresh pasta: Cook it following the instructions on section Pasta and Noodles just until it’s pliable, no more than 1 minute, then drain the noodles in a colander in the sink. Don’t overcook the pasta—it needs to absorb moisture in the casserole (a task that no-boil noodles will do well).

If you’re using dried noodles: Cook as directed on section Pasta and Noodles, but do not cook them all the way; leave them a little firm since they’ll continue to cook in the casserole.

To build the casserole in a 13 × 9-inch pan, follow this method: 1 cup tomato sauce across the pan’s bottom; 2 sheets of homemade pasta, 3 no-boil noodles, or 4 to 5 cooked, drained dried lasagna noodles; 1½ cups tomato sauce; half the sausage rings; half the basil leaves; half the cheese slices; 2 more sheets of homemade pasta, 3 no-boil noodles, or 4 to 5 cooked, drained dried lasagna noodles; 1½ cups tomato sauce; the remaining sausage rings; the remaining basil; the remaining cheese; the remaining noodles; and finally the remaining tomato sauce.

Cover the pan with parchment paper, then aluminum foil. Bake for 35 minutes, then uncover the pan and continue baking until hot, bubbling, and set, about 15 more minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Autumn Lasagna with Chicken

Ragù, Pine Nuts, and Raisins

This modern take on a medieval casserole is made with a chicken ragù and layered with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, golden raisins, pine nuts, and chestnut noodles (or no-boil noodles, if you want a short cut). Makes 8 servings

For the Chicken Ragù:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium onion, diced

1 medium carrot, peeled and diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

8 ounces pancetta, finely chopped

1½ s boneless skinless chicken thighs, diced into ½-inch pieces

¼ pound chicken gizzards, finely chopped

½ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

12 minced sage leaves

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground