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2 cups chicken broth

¼ cup tomato paste

For the Casserole:

6 tablespoons pine nuts

Six 12 × 5-inch sheets fresh Chestnut Pasta, 9 no-boil lasagna noodles, or 12 to 15 dried lasagna noodles

6 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, thinly shaved

6 tablespoons dry white wine

6 tablespoons golden raisins

To make the chicken ragù, heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter—the moment the butter melts, add the onion and carrot. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 15 seconds.

Add the chopped pancetta and cook until frizzled and browned, about 3 minutes, stirring often.

Stir in the chopped thighs and gizzards. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until they’re well browned, stirring often, about 8 minutes.

Pour in the wine or vermouth; use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Stir in the sage, bay leaves, nutmeg, and cloves. Pour in the broth; stir in the tomato paste until it dissolves. Reduce the heat to low, set the cover askew, and simmer very slowly for 30 minutes. Then cover the pan and continue cooking until the gizzard pieces are tender, about 30 more minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Place a small skillet over medium heat and add the pine nuts. Toast just until golden, about 4 minutes, tossing frequently. Pour into a small bowl and cool for 5 minutes.

If you’re using fresh pasta: Cook it first. Once you add the pasta sheets to the water, cook for just 1 minute, just to set the noodles; they will cook more in the casserole. The noodles tear easily, so drain them gently in a colander set in the sink. (If some tear, reassemble them in the casserole as you layer it.)

If you’re using dried lasagna noodles: Cook them in the same way, but a little longer, perhaps 4 minutes, just until they start to get a little tender; drain in a colander set in the sink.

Layer the lasagna in a 13 × 9-inch pan this way: ½ cup chicken ragù, spread in the bottom of the pan; 2 sheets of homemade pasta, 3 no-boil noodles, or 4 to 5 cooked, drained dried lasagna noodles; 1½ cups chicken ragù; half the cheese, placed evenly on the ragù; 3 tablespoons white wine sprinkled over the cheese; half the toasted pine nuts and half the raisins; 2 more sheets of homemade pasta, 3 no-boil noodles, or 4 to 5 cooked, drained dried lasagna noodles; 1½ cups chicken ragù; the remaining cheese; 3 tablespoons white wine, again sprinkled over them; the remaining pine nuts and raisins; the remaining pasta; and finally the remaining chicken ragù, making sure it covers the casserole thoroughly.

Cover the pan with a layer of parchment paper, then a layer of aluminum foil. Bake for 40 minutes, then uncover and continue baking until dense, compact, and bubbling, about 5 more minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Winter Lasagna with

Mushrooms, Spinach,

and Tarragon

Here, a rich velouté (a flour-and-butter-thickened stock) is layered with a mushroom ragù and grated cheese. Makes 8 servings

For the Mushroom Ragù:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1½ s white button or cremini mushrooms, brushed of all visible dirt and thinly sliced

One 16-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry

4 teaspoons minced tarragon leaves or 2 teaspoons dried tarragon

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

For the White Wine Velouté:

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 large onion, minced

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken broth

2 cups whole or low-fat milk (do not use fat-free)

1 cup white wine, preferably a smooth white Burgundy or a fruity Pinot Gris

For the Casserole:

Six 12 × 5-inch sheets homemade Whole Wheat Pasta, 9 no-boil lasagna noodles, or 12 to 15 dried lasagna noodles, preferably whole wheat noodles

12 ounces Emmentaler, Gruyère, or Appenzeller, grated

To make the mushroom ragù, melt the 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet