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Stir in the cornstarch or arrowroot mixture. Simmer until just thickened, probably less than 20 seconds. Immediately remove from the heat and let rest for a couple of minutes before serving.

Variations: Add one 8-ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained, or one 8-ounce can sliced bamboo shoots, drained, with the scallions.

Add 1 cup preserved Asian vegetables, such as turnips or radishes, with the scallions. (Be careful: some of these preparations are fiery hot.)

Substitute 1 cup broccoli florets, cauliflower florets, or snow peas for the bell pepper.

What to Do with

Chicken Legs and Thighs

Pan-Roasted Chicken Quarters with Herb Butter

Air-drying the chicken in the refrigerator ensures the crispest skin; adding the herb butter, the best taste. Makes 6 servings

Six 8-to 10-ounce skin-on drumstick-and-thigh quarters, visible excess fat removed

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

One of the three herb butters that follow

Blot the chicken quarters dry, place them on a large baking sheet, and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.

Heat a large grill pan, cast-iron skillet, or oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Brush or swirl in the olive oil, then add the quarters, skin side down. Cook until well browned, turning once, 12 to 15 minutes.

Place the pan or skillet in the oven and cook until the juices run clear, 15 to 20 minutes, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh without touching bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation). Let stand at room temperature for 2 minutes, transfer to serving plates, and top with a scant tablespoon of one of the herb butters.

Three Herb Butters

To make any of these, mash the butter and olive oil in a small bowl with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients and press them into the butter through the tines of the fork. Make them up to a week in advance; store, covered, in the refrigerator; and use them straight from the refrigerator (they’ll melt on the hot chicken).

1. Parsley and Thyme Butter

Makes about 6 tablespoons

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme

¼ teaspoon salt

2. Garlic Lemon Butter

Makes about 6 tablespoons

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

2 finely minced garlic cloves

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Dark Meat Chicken

If you were able to find a chicken in the wild, you’d discover that it had only dark meat—the breast muscles darker from flight and use, from being consistently oxygenated. Dark meat tends to be fattier and better able to stand up to more substantial cooking techniques like stewing and braising.

* * *

3. Smoked Paprika Butter

Makes a little less than 6 tablespoons

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

¼ teaspoon salt

Outdoor/Indoor Chicken

Quarters with Blueberry

Ginger Barbecue Sauce

Whether you cook the quarters indoors or out, marinating them in buttermilk offers a tart back-taste to match this sweet and aromatic sauce. The Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce gives a sweet, aromatic pop to the meat. Makes 6 servings

1¼ cups buttermilk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

3 tablespoons minced sage leaves or 1 tablespoon rubbed sage

1½ tablespoons paprika

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 tablespoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon salt

Six 8-to 10-ounce skin-on drumstick-and-thigh quarters, all visible fat trimmed

6 teaspoons canola oil, plus additional for the grate or the pan

Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)

To make the quarters outdoors:

Place the buttermilk, sage, paprika, maple syrup, dry mustard, and salt in a large ziplock plastic bag; seal the bag and shake to combine. Add the chicken quarters, seal again, and shake to coat.