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Oil the cooking grate, then heat a gas grill to high heat or build a high-heat, red-hot-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Remove the chicken quarters from the marinade; pat dry with paper towels. Discard the marinade and the plastic bag. Rub 1 teaspoon oil into each quarter.

Place the quarters skin side down on the grate directly over the heat source or the coals. Cover the grill and cook for 10 minutes.

Pour about half of the warm Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce into a small bowl (reserving half that won’t touch the partially cooked poultry). Baste the quarters generously with some of the sauce, turn, and baste the other side.

Cover and continue grilling, basting once more, until browned and the juices run clear, until a meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh without touching bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 7 to 10 more minutes. Transfer the quarters to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the reserved Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce on the side.

To make the quarters indoors:

Complete step 1 on section Chicken, Turkey, and Other Birds.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Remove the quarters from the marinade; pat dry with paper towels. Discard the marinade and the bag.

Heat a large grill pan, cast-iron skillet, or ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Brush or swirl in 1 tablespoon canola oil; add the quarters skin side down. Cook until nicely browned but not cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes, turning once.

Pour about half of the Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce into a small bowl, reserving half that won’t touch the partially cooked poultry. Generously brush the quarters with some of the sauce; turn them skin side up and brush again.

Place the pan or skillet in the oven, uncovered, and bake until lacquered, until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh without touching the bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the quarters to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the reserved Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce as a garnish.

Blueberry Ginger Barbecue Sauce

This sauce would also be welcome with almost any chicken, sausage, or pork barbecue. Makes about 1½ cups

2 cups blueberries

1 cup sugar

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 scallion, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon salt

Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the mixture comes to a light simmer.

Reduce the heat to low and continue simmering, stirring often, until as thick as ketchup, about 20 minutes. This sauce can be made ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Variations: Add 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme, 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg with the blueberries.

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Other chicken dishes: Chicken Salad; Classic Chicken Soup; Autumn Lasagna; Pad Thai; Pad See Ew; Potato, Chicken, and Green Bean Salad with Champagne Tarragon Vinaigrette; and Asian-Inspired Dirty Rice with Chicken, Edamame, and Walnuts.

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Stovetop Chicken and Rice

A workday dish, this has become a favorite in our cooking classes. It’s rich and homey—and ever so easy, thanks to dried mushrooms and no-fuss thigh quarters. Makes 4 servings (can be doubled)

1 ounce dried mushrooms, such as shiitakes, morels, porcini, chanterelles, or a mixture

2½ cups boiling water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Four 8-to 10-ounce skin-on drumstick-and-thigh quarters, visible excess fat removed

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 medium shallots, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2/3 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth, or more as necessary

¾ cup white rice

2 bay leaves

½ teaspoon salt

Place the mushrooms in a medium bowl, add the boiling water, and