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Game Birds: Pheasant, Squab, and Quail

Although these were once game birds, few still are. Of course, there are hunters who regularly track down their quota; but for the most part, these birds have now been domesticated—which para>is actually the good news. They’re increasingly available in our markets and from suppliers on the Web.

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Roast Pheasant with Brandy Cream Sauce

Because of the delicate cream sauce, this recipe is better for a domesticated pheasant, not a wild one. Makes 4 servings

One 3-to 3½-pound pheasant, giblets and neck removed

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Butcher’s twine

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

8 thyme sprigs

1 medium shallot, minced

½ cup chicken broth

¼ cup brandy or Cognac

¼ cup heavy cream

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Season the pheasant’s skin and interior with salt and pepper; truss the bird with butcher’s twine.

Melt the butter in a heavy-duty, oven-safe skillet set over medium heat. Add the bird breast side down. Cook until well browned, about 4 minutes, shaking the pan, moving the bird occasionally to make sure it doesn’t stick, and basting it often with the pan juices. Turn and continue basting until brown on all sides, about 4 more minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and lift the bird up with metal tongs. Place the thyme sprigs in the pan, making a little bed. Put the bird over them, then place the skillet in the oven.

Roast until well browned and crispy, until a meat thermometer inserted halfway into the thickest part of the breast registers 160°F (our preference and the USDA recommendation), basting occasionally with the pan juices, about 1¼ hours. Transfer to a carving platter or board.

Remove the thyme from the very hot skillet and skim the pan drippings of any fat. Place the skillet over medium-high heat and add the shallot. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the broth, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom.

Once the broth comes to a simmer, stir in the brandy. (If the sauce flames, quickly cover the skillet and remove it from the heat for at least 20 seconds or until the fire is out.) Simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced by two thirds. Stir in the cream, cook for 1 minute, and serve alongside the carved bird.

Variation: Substitute 4 tarragon, chervil, or marjoram sprigs for the thyme.

Stewed Pheasant with Potatoes, Mushrooms, and Bacon

In French, this preparation is called grand-mère because it’s said to be the kind of stew your grandmother would make (if she made pheasant). Makes 4 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 ounces thick-cut bacon, roughly chopped

One 3-to 3½-pound pheasant, giblets removed, cut into 9 pieces like a chicken

1 large leek, white and pale green parts only, split down the middle, the inner leaves washed carefully of sand, and thinly sliced into half-moons

1 large baking potato, peeled and diced

10 ounces white button or cremini mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

1 cup chicken broth

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large, oven-safe casserole or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the bacon. Fry until crisp, stirring often, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

Add the pheasant and cook in the fat, turning often, until the pieces are well browned on both sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer the pheasant pieces to a second plate.

Pour off about half the fat in the pot, then set it back over medium heat and add the leek. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the potato; cook, stirring frequently, until browned, about 2 minutes.

Add the mushrooms and thyme. Cook, stirring once in a while, just until the mushrooms have begun to give off their liquid, about 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine or vermouth