Ultimate Cook Book_ 900 New Recipes, Thousands of Ideas - Bruce Weinstein [202]
Return the bacon to the pot, then the pheasant and any accumulated juices. Place the pot in the oven and cook, uncovered, stirring a couple of times, until the pheasant is tender, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh without touching bone registers 160°F (our preference and the USDA recommendation), about 40 minutes.
Variations: Marinate the pheasant overnight with a bottle of red wine, a tablespoon of cracked black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, and 2 whole cloves. Discard the marinade; substitute red wine for the white wine in the sauce.
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Pheasant
Pheasants were introduced to North America by the idle rich who fancied themselves hunters. But the delicious meat won out over pretension; pheasants are now found both in the wild and at most specialty markets.
Wild pheasants are often sold partially cleaned. The kidneys and liver may still be attached and must be removed. There may also be some quills; remove these with tweezers.
Oddly, the USDA recommends cooking pheasants to a lower temperature than other fowl: 160°F, exactly our preference.
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Seared Squabs with Sour Cherries and Port
Squabs are young domesticated pigeons, not like the kind in a city park, but like the wild bird preferred in France. Although the birds are not allowed to fly before slaughter, the meat is dark throughout with a pleasant if gamy taste that stands up well to rich sauces. Makes 4 servings
Four 1-pound squabs, giblets removed
2 tablespoons walnut oil
2 medium shallots, minced
2 cups pitted fresh or jarred sour cherries
1½ cups port
Slice the squabs in half by placing them breast side down on your work surface and cutting through on one side of the backbone with a heavy, sharp knife. Also slice through the skin under the wings by the thigh, making a long slit in the skin that will keep the birds from curling up as the skin shrinks in the oven.
Heat a very large skillet or two large skillets over medium heat. Add the walnut oil, then the birds skin side down. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn and continue cooking until well browned on both sides, about 5 more minutes. Transfer the birds to a plate; set aside.
Add the shallots to one or both of the skillets. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 1 minute. Add the cherries and cook for 1 more minute.
Pour in the port (dividing it in half if you’re using two skillets) and bring the mixture to a boil, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom. Simmer until reduced by half, about 4 minutes.
Return the squabs and any accumulated juices to the skillet(s). Baste well with the sauce, simmering until the leg joints move freely and an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thigh registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 3 to 7 minutes. Serve with the cherry sauce mopped over the birds.
Variations: Substitute unsalted butter for the walnut oil.
Substitute fresh or jarred pitted plums, roughly chopped, for the cherries. Also add 2 teaspoons lemon juice with the port.
Add one 4-inch cinnamon stick, 3 whole cloves, or 1 star anise pod with the port.
Substitute a sweet Madeira or cream sherry for the port.
Pomegranate Quail
Quail is so sweet, it’s a natural pairing with tart pomegranate molasses. Makes 4 appetizer servings or 2 main-course servings (can be doubled or tripled)
Four 4-to 4½-ounce quail, any giblets or innards removed
½ cup pomegranate molasses
¼ cup walnut oil, plus additional for the grill grate or pan
¼ cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint
1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the quail breast side up on your work surface. Insert a sharp knife into the body cavity and slice down on either side of the backbone, thereby cutting it out and allowing you to press the quail open flat. Turn it over and press it open flat again.