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Bring the wine or vermouth, garlic, lemongrass, and cinnamon stick to a simmer in a small saucepan set over high heat.

Pour the sauce over the fillets, cover the pan with aluminum foil, and bake until the thin parts of the fish flake when gently scraped with a fork, about 12 minutes.

Carefully remove the fillets from the pan and transfer them to four serving plates. Tent with foil to keep warm, if desired.

Pour the contents of the baking pan into a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. Stir in the coconut milk and fish sauce, then stir in the chiles, shallot, ginger, coriander seeds, and zest. Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer slowly for 3 minutes.

Strain the coconut mixture into a medium bowl, then spoon over the fish fillets. Season with salt, then sprinkle ½ tablespoon shredded basil over each fillet.

Variations: Add 4 kaffir lime leaves with the chiles.

For a more authentic taste, substitute galangal for the ginger.

For a milder dish, use only 1 chile.

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Cooking Tips for Thin Fish Fillets

Thin fillets are overcooked as quickly as they’re cooked. When the thinnest part of the fillet can be flaked with a fork, the thickest part is done.

Slip the fillets into the pan with the whiter or curved side down. You’ll then flip them once and get them onto the plate right side up.

Use a wide, slotted metal or nonstick-safe spatula. Fillets fall apart easily—the wider the utensil, the less likely they’ll break.

Consider warming your dinner plates as you make the dish. Place them in a preheated 250°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, just long enough to knock off the chill.

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Baked Buttery Thin White-Fleshed Fish Fillets with Wine and Chives

Here’s an easy baked casserole. Makes 6 servings

2 pounds thin white-fleshed fish fillets

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, very soft, at room temperature

¼ cup chopped chives or the green parts of scallions (see Note)

½ teaspoon salt, preferably kosher or coarse-grained sea salt

1½ cups dry white wine (do not use dry vermouth)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

Blot the fillets dry, then spread the soft butter evenly over both sides. Lay into a 13 × 9-inch flame-safe roasting or baking pan, overlapping as need be. Sprinkle the chives evenly over, among, and even under the fillets. Sprinkle with salt.

Pour the wine over the fillets. Place the dish in the oven and bake until the fillets are firm to the touch, until they begin to flake when gently scraped with a fork at the thinnest parts, about 20 minutes.

Carefully transfer the fillets to individual serving plates or a large serving platter; tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.

Set the roasting pan or heat-safe baking pan over medium heat. (If you’ve used a baking pan that’s not safe on a burner or over a flame, transfer its contents to a large skillet.) Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer, then stir in the lemon juice and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Spoon over the fillets.

Note: Scallions are stronger than chives. Compensate by using a big-flavored white wine like a Chardonnay.

Variations: Sprinkle ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes over the fillets before baking.

Lay 8 to 10 thyme sprigs in the baking dish, then lay the fillets on top of them. Remove the sprigs from the sauce just before serving.

Cornmeal-and-Maple–Crusted Thin White-Fleshed Fish Fillets

We’ve upped the servings here because frying fish fillets seems a task for bigger crowds—or for larger portions among four people. Work in batches if you need to—or divide the ingredients between two skillets. Be ready to serve these easy fillets the moment they come out of the pan. Makes 6 servings

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons maple syrup

½ cup finely ground yellow cornmeal

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon chili powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground