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¼ cup peanut oil

Six 4-to 6-ounce thin white-fleshed fish fillets

1 teaspoon salt

Whisk the eggs and maple syrup in a shallow soup bowl. Mix the cornmeal, flour, chili powder, and pepper on a serving plate with a fork until uniform.

Heat the peanut oil in a large, deep-sided skillet or sauté pan over medium heat until the oil ripples.

Meanwhile, pat the fillets dry with paper towels, then dredge them in the egg mixture on both sides, shaking off any excess. Gently press them into the cornmeal mixture, lightly coating both sides thoroughly and evenly. Shake off any excess and slide into the skillet. (With 6 fillets, you may need to work in batches.)

Cook until brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Turn and continue frying until brown on the other side, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and season with salt.

Variations: Substitute curry powder or smoked paprika for the chili powder.

Fried Catfish Sandwiches: Use catfish fillets, then place them on hamburger buns with chopped lettuce, mayonnaise, and salsa.

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Looking for other ways to fry fish? Cut thin white-fleshed fillets into 2-inch pieces, then substitute them for the scallops in the Fried Scallops, using the beer-batter crust and technique for frying, or for the oysters in the Fried Oysters and using the Panko Crust and the technique called for in that recipe.

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Fish Broth

If there’s a wide range of quality among varieties of canned chicken broth, there’s an even wider one among fish broths. Look for frozen fish “demi-glace” at high-end markets; if you can’t find it, substitute a good-quality vegetable broth. You can use clam juice, sold in bottles at most markets, but its taste will be less subtle and may overwhelm all but the strongest sauces.

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Sweet-and-Sour Thin White-Fleshed Fish Fillets

Crispy but surprisingly light, these fillets are put in a thick, rich sauce, then topped with shredded vegetables. Makes 4 servings

Four 4-to 6-ounce thin white-fleshed fish fillets

5 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

3 cups plus 1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

2 scallions, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

½ cup chicken, vegetable, or fish broth

1 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1 celery rib, thinly sliced

Pat the fillets dry with paper towels. Cut them into 2-inch pieces, place in a large baking dish, and sprinkle with 3 tablespoons Shaoxing or sherry. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

Place 3 cups peanut oil in a large saucepan, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan, and set it over medium-high heat. Heat until the temperature registers 360°F.

Drain off any excess Shaoxing or sherry in the dish, then sprinkle ½ tablespoon cornstarch over the fillets. Turn them over and sprinkle with another ½ tablespoon cornstarch. Make sure the fillets are lightly coated.

Slip them into the hot oil. Fry until lightly browned, turning once, about 4 minutes, adjusting the heat so the temperature remains constant. Transfer the fish to a wire rack. Set the oil aside to cool and save for another purpose or discard.

Whisk the remaining 2 teaspoons cornstarch with the water in a small bowl; set aside.

Heat a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil, then toss in the scallions, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry until very aromatic, about 30 seconds.

Stir in the vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and the remaining 2 tablespoons Shaoxing or sherry. Bring this mixture to a simmer, then stir in the broth.

Once the mixture comes back to a full boil, whisk in the cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 20 seconds.

Mound the fish pieces on a serving platter; pour the thickened sauce over them. Top with the carrots and celery.

Variation: Add up to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes or up to 12 Chinese dried red chiles with