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Clean and dry the skillet, then return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, then toss in the onion. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 20 seconds.

Stir in the shredded bell peppers or pimientos, thyme, and saffron. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Pour in the vinegar and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits off the pan’s bottom. Add the bay leaves, sugar, salt, and pepper; simmer for 1 minute.

Pour over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 48 hours. To serve, discard the bay leaves and scoop up pieces of the fish along with the marinade and vegetables.

II. Southwestern Escabeche with Poblanos, Corn, and Cumin

Makes 4 main-course servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup canola oil

2 pounds thin white-fleshed fish fillets

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 poblano chiles, seeded and chopped

2 ears corn, husked and the kernels cut off the cobs, or 1¾ cups frozen corn, thawed

¼ cup chopped dried cherries, blueberries, or cranberries

2 teaspoons chopped oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup cider vinegar

Place the flour in a shallow soup bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels; then dredge in the flour, shake off the excess, and slip into the pan. Cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until lightly browned on the other side, about 1 more minute. Transfer to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes.

Slice the fillets into ½-inch pieces and place in a large nonreactive bowl or a glass baking dish. Set aside.

Clean and dry the skillet; return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and then the onion. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and chiles; cook for 20 seconds.

Stir in the corn and dried fruit or berries; then stir in the oregano, cumin seeds, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, for 15 seconds, then pour in the vinegar. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 1 minute.

Pour over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 48 hours. To serve, scoop up pieces of the fish along with the marinade and vegetables.

III. Filipino-Inspired Escabeche with Potatoes and Ginger

Makes 4 main-course servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup peanut oil

2 pounds thin white-fleshed fish fillets

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

4 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger

2 medium yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon golds, peeled and cut into very small cubes, less than ½ inch

1 cup rice vinegar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

Place the flour in a shallow soup bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels; then dredge in the flour, shake off the excess, and slip into the pan. Cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until lightly browned on the other side, about 1 more minute. Transfer to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes.

Slice the fillets into ½-inch pieces and place in a large nonreactive bowl or a glass baking dish. Set aside.

Clean and dry the skillet; return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and toss in the onion. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger; cook for 20 seconds.

Add the potatoes and cook, stirring very often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Pour in the rice vinegar and soy sauce. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 1 minute, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan.

Pour over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 48 hours. To serve, scoop up pieces of the fish along with the marinade and vegetables.

IV. Sweet-and-Sour Escabeche

Makes