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1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup canola oil

2 pounds thin white-fleshed fish fillets

1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

8 dried figs, stemmed and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons pine nuts

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 cup white balsamic vinegar

Place the flour in a shallow soup bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels; then dredge in the flour, shake off the excess, and slip into the pan. Cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip and continue cooking until lightly browned on the other side, about 1 more minute. Transfer to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes.

Slice the fillets into ½-inch pieces and place in a large nonreactive bowl or a glass baking dish. Set aside.

Clean and dry the skillet; return it to medium heat. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then add the onion and figs. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the pine nuts, fennel seeds, salt, and nutmeg. Cook, stirring constantly, for 15 seconds, then pour in the vinegar. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 1 minute.

Pour over the fish. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 48 hours. To serve, scoop up pieces of the fish along with the marinade and vegetables.

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Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets: Cod, Scrod, Haddock, Grouper, Sturgeon, Pollock, and Halibut

Since thicker fish fillets can endure more substantial cooking, they’re good for complex sauces, braises, and roasts. These fillets are remarkably similar, with a few caveats: cod has a strong taste, halibut is quite meaty, and grouper can be overcooked as quickly as any thin fish fillet. Scrod, by the way, is simply a small cod or haddock, weighing under 2½ pounds. There’s an even wider range of cooking times here because the fillets come in different thicknesses. In all cases, watch carefully and go by the visual cues rather than the timing.

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Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets Poached with Tomatoes and Cinnamon

This scented tomato stew is the perfect sauce for a meaty, thick-fleshed fish. Use a high-quality extra virgin olive oil since it’s the finishing “sauce” on the fish. To serve, lay the fillets over Perfect Mashed Potatoes or cooked rice, then ladle the sauce on top. Makes 4 servings

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 medium shallots, peeled and quartered

2 garlic cloves, slivered

1½ pounds fresh tomatoes, preferably Roma or plum tomatoes, chopped

One 4-inch cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon fennel seeds

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Six 4-to 6-ounce thick white-fleshed fish fillets, skinned

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Melt the butter in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until soft and golden, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Add the tomatoes; tuck in the cinnamon stick. Stir in the fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Bring the sauce to a simmer; then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer; until the tomatoes break down and create a sauce, stirring once in a while, about 20 minutes.

Remove the cinnamon stick and discard it. Nestle the fish into the tomatoes, drizzle it with olive oil, cover, and poach until the thick, opaque layers split evenly when pulled with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes.

Variations: Add 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced, or 1 carrot, diced, with the tomatoes.

Reduce the tomatoes to 1 pound and add 1 medium eggplant, peeled and diced, with them. For a taste like ratatouille, substitute 2 teaspoons chopped oregano leaves and 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme for the fennel seeds.

Add ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes with the fennel seeds.

Substitute 3 cups canned diced tomatoes with their juice for the fresh tomatoes; simmer only about 10 minutes with the herbs.

Substitute 1 star anise pod for the cinnamon stick.

Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets Poached in Artichoke Stew

This Mediterranean-inspired stew couldn’t be easier, thanks to canned artichoke hearts. Serve