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2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

6 canned artichoke hearts packed in water, rinsed and halved

3 tablespoons chopped pitted black olives

1 tablespoon capers, drained, rinsed, and chopped

1 teaspoon chopped oregano leaves or ½ teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon saffron

1 cup dry white wine (do not use dry vermouth)

Two large 8-to 10-ounce thick white-fleshed fish fillets

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Heat a large, high-sided sauté pan or a small Dutch oven over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds.

Stir in the artichoke hearts, olives, capers, oregano, thyme, pepper, and saffron. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute; then pour in the wine. Bring the sauce to a simmer, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 minutes.

Nestle the fish into the sauce, cover again, and cook until the thick, opaque layers can be separated when pulled with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste the stew for salt, season if necessary, and cut the fillets in half before serving.

Variations: Substitute fresh baby artichokes, trimmed and halved, for the canned artichokes; cook, covered, in the sauce until tender, about 30 minutes.

Add the supremes from 1 orange and ½ teaspoon sugar with the artichoke hearts, right column, steps 1 and 2, for directions on how to take the supremes from an orange). Also substitute red wine for the white wine.

For a roasted garlic taste, omit the individual garlic cloves and roast a whole garlic head. Cool, then squeeze the garlic pulp into the sauce when you add the artichoke hearts.

Mushroom-Coated Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets with Wine and Olives

Finely ground dried mushrooms make an excellent crust; toasting them enhances their flavor. Halibut makes a nice, mild-tasting choice for this dish. If you use larger, 8-to 10-ounce cod or grouper fillets, cut them in half the short way for even cooking. Makes 4 servings

¾ ounce dried porcini mushrooms

1½ teaspoons flour

Four 4-to 6-ounce thick white-fleshed fish fillets

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup dry white wine

24 pitted green olives, halved

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the dried mushrooms in a skillet, then set the pan over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until quite aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a food processor fitted with the chopping blade and cool for 10 minutes. Add the flour; process until finely ground.

Pat the fillets dry with paper towels, then massage the mushroom mixture evenly into the flesh.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the fish fillets. Shake the pan several times within the first few seconds to make sure the fillets aren’t sticking, then cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook for 2 more minutes.

Pour the wine into the pan without getting it on the fish. Sprinkle the olives around the pan and add the thyme. Bring the sauce to a simmer; then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the fish is firm to the touch and flakes when scraped lightly with a fork, 8 to 12 minutes.

Transfer the fillets to four serving plates. Raise the heat to high and bring the sauce to a simmer. Cook until reduced to a glaze, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, swirl in the butter until it melts, check the sauce to see if it needs any salt, and spoon it over the fish. Sprinkle each with a little ground pepper just before serving.

Variations: Use any variety of dried mushroom you want: chanterelles, shiitakes, morels, or a mixture. Substitute 3 tablespoons drained and rinsed capers for the olives.

Grilled Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets with Sesame Barbecue Glaze

We’ve adapted a traditional Chinese