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To help clams expel any sand, fill a large bowl with water, add the clams plus 1 or 2 tablespoons cornmeal, and refrigerate for 1 hour. They’ll spit out any grit in favor of the food.

All bivalve shells should be scrubbed with a plastic brush to get rid of any grit.

Mussels often have wiry hairs protruding from the shells—the so-called beard by which they attach themselves to rocks, posts, and other mussels. Farm-raised mussels, the bulk of the market, have few to none of these beards. Beards must be removed before cooking. Yank off those wiry hairs and cook within 5 minutes.

Once cooked, discard any bivalves that do not open.

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3. Mussels, Clams, or Cockles in Red Wine

Fat

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Vegetables and aromatics

8 ounces mushrooms, cleaned and very thinly sliced

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 medium carrot, peeled and very thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

Seasonings

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme

2 bay leaves

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Liquids

2 cups red wine

2 tablespoons brandy, Cognac, or Armagnac, optional

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

4. Chowder-Style Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Vegetables and aromatics

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 celery rib, thinly sliced

6 ounces thin-cut bacon, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

Seasoning

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme

Liquids

2 cups heavy cream

½ cup vegetable broth

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

5. Provençal-Style Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Vegetables and aromatics

1 medium onion, chopped

1 medium leek, white and green parts only, halved, washed for any grit, then thinly sliced

1 medium fennel bulb, fronds trimmed, bulb trimmed and very thinly sliced

8 Roma or plum tomatoes, diced

1 garlic clove, minced

Seasonings

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme

1/8 teaspoon saffron

Liquids

2 cups vegetable broth

¼ cup Pastis, Pernod, or Ricard

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

6. Japanese-Style Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

1 tablespoon canola oil

Vegetables and aromatics

3 scallions, thinly sliced

Seasonings

½ cup chopped pickled “sushi” ginger

Liquids

2 cups dry sake

¼ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon prepared wasabi paste

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

7. Spanish-Style Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

2 tablespoons olive oil

Vegetables and aromatics

12/3 cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed

12 cherry tomatoes, halved

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

Seasonings

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon crumbled saffron

Liquids

1¾ cups vegetable broth

½ cup dry sherry

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

8. Indonesian-Style Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon canola oil

Vegetables and aromatics

3 medium shallots, thinly sliced into rings

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 Thai or serrano chiles, halved, seeded, and minced

1 lemongrass stalk, cut into 1-inch segments, each crushed

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

Seasonings

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

One 4-inch cinnamon stick

Liquids

1 cup regular or low-fat coconut milk

1 cup vegetable broth

½ cup Shaoxing or dry sherry

2 tablespoons fish sauce

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

9. Mussels, Clams, or Cockles in a Thai Coconut Curry

Fat

2 tablespoons canola oil

Vegetables