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5 medium scallions, thinly sliced

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

Seasonings

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

Up to 1 tablespoon red Thai curry paste or yellow Thai curry paste

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

Liquids

1½ cups vegetable broth

1 cup regular or low-fat coconut milk

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

10. “Barbecued” Mussels, Clams, or Cockles

Fat

1 tablespoon peanut oil

Vegetables and aromatics

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

4 celery ribs, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

Seasonings

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon paprika

2 teaspoons dry mustard

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Liquids

1 cup tomato sauce

1 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon liquid smoke

Bivalves

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded; 4 pounds clams, scrubbed; or 4 pounds cockles, scrubbed

Grilled Oysters Rockefeller

A light bread crumb topping matches well with the briny, seared oysters in this cocktail classic. After you’ve shucked the oysters, sit them in the larger half of their shells, the halves to which they were originally attached. Cook the oysters within minutes of shucking them. Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ cup plain dried bread crumbs

2 scallions, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons minced parsley leaves

2 tablespoons Pernod, Pastis, or other licorice-flavored liqueur

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce, or more to taste

2 dozen large, fresh raw oysters in their shells, shucked

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated

Mix the butter, bread crumbs, scallions, garlic, parsley, liqueur, salt, pepper, and hot red pepper sauce in a medium bowl. Set aside.

Divide the bread-crumb topping among the oysters; sprinkle each with some of the cheese.

To grill: Preheat a gas grill for medium heat or build a medium-heat, wide, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Place the grate on the grill about 4 inches over the heat. Place the oysters shell side down directly over the heat. Cover and grill until the cheese melts and the topping browns, about 5 minutes.

To broil: Preheat the broiler, then lay the prepared oysters in their shells on the broiler rack. Set them about 6 inches from the heat and broil until the cheese melts and the bread crumbs brown a bit, about 4 minutes. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving.

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How to Shuck Oysters

Hold the oyster in its shell in one hand and insert an oyster shucker or small, heavy-duty, flat-head, well-cleaned screwdriver into the joint between the two shells, the tiny pivot point at the small, tapering ends of the shell (where the oyster would be hanging off a tree if it were a pear). Be careful not to chip the shell; pry it open by twisting the shucker into the pivot point and wrenching the shell’s two halves apart. Clean out any fractured shell bits, then run the shucker under the oyster meat to cut off the inside of the shell. Place the meat and any accumulated juices in the larger half of the shell; discard the smaller half.

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Beef and Oyster Casserole

Oysters give the beef a salty, subtle flavor. The buttery top crust makes this dish old-fashioned comfort food. Makes 6 servings

7 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, chopped

4 ounces cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

1½ pounds 93% lean ground beef

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting

1 cup beef broth

12 oysters, shucked, with their juices, or one 8-ounce container shucked oysters

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon thyme

2 teaspoons minced sage leaves or

1 teaspoon rubbed sage

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening

1 to 2 tablespoons ice water