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¼ cup grated Cheddar, at room temperature

¼ cup grated Brie, rind removed, at room temperature (see Note)

1½ pounds 80% lean ground beef

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Canola oil

Mix both cheeses in a small bowl; set aside.

Use a fork to stir the beef, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, and pepper in a medium bowl. Divide this mixture into 8 portions; roll each into a ball and flatten into patties about 4 inches in diameter.

Mound about 2 tablespoons of the cheese mixture in the center of 4 patties, leaving a ½-inch border around the perimeter of each. Top each with one of the 4 remaining patties. Pat and pinch the edges to seal tightly.

Prepare the grill for direct, high-heat cooking; lightly oil the grill grate. Alternatively, lightly oil a large grill pan, griddle, or skillet; heat it over medium heat. Place the patties on the grate 4 to 6 inches directly over the heat or into the grill pan, griddle, or skillet. Cook, turning once, until well browned, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the top portion of a patty without touching the cheese filling registers 160°F (for medium) or 170°F (for medium well), 7 to 10 minutes. Do not press down on the burgers while they cook; the seams can split and the fillings leak. Transfer to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes.

Note: The Brie is easier to grate if it’s frozen for 20 minutes.

Variations: Add any of the following to the cheese mixture: ¼ cup cooked crumbled bacon, 1 tablespoon minced red onion, 1 tablespoon stemmed thyme, 1 tablespoon chopped pine nuts, 2 teaspoons chopped walnuts, ½ teaspoon garlic powder, or several dashes of hot red pepper sauce.

Also, use any combination of cheeses you prefer: Asiago and Provolone, Parmigiano-Reggiano and mozzarella, or buffalo mozzarella and Boursin. Or slather half the patties with softened goat cheese, plain or herbed, then top and seal as directed.

Plain Hamburgers: Omit the cheese filling; divide the seasoned beef mixture into 4 balls and press into 4 patties. Make a thumb-sized indentation in one side of the patties to keep them from drawing up into a ball on the grill. Because the resulting burgers will be solid beef (rather than two layers of it), cook a minute or two longer, using the temperature guidelines given in step 4.

Beef and Mushroom Burgers

Fresh and dried mushrooms add moisture to burgers; more important, they add a deep, rich flavor. Makes 4 burgers

6 large cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

1 small shallot, quartered

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves or 2 teaspoons dried parsley

2 teaspoons chopped tarragon leaves or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Canola or vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate

1½ pounds 80% lean ground beef

Place the creminis, dried mushrooms, shallot, parsley, tarragon, salt, and pepper in a food processor; pulse until finely ground.

Preheat a grill for direct high heat; lightly oil the grill grate. Alternatively, oil a large griddle, grill pan, or skillet and heat over medium-high heat.

Transfer the mushroom mixture to a large bowl; use a fork to stir in the ground beef. Form into 4 patties, compressing slightly and creating a thumb-sized indentation on one side of each to keep them from compacting to a ball over the heat.

Place the patties 4 to 6 inches directly over the heat or in the pan. Cook, turning once, until well browned, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the center of one of the patties registers 160°F (for medium) or 170°F (for medium well), 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let stand for 5 minutes.

Variations: Substitute any variety of dried mushroom you want: chanterelles, morels, black trumpets, or a combination.

Substitute almost any herb for the tarragon: marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme, rosemary, chervil, or chives.

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