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Buns

Lightly butter or oil the cut side of hamburger buns, English muffins, potato rolls, or challah rolls; place them, cut side down, onto the grate or in the pan after you’ve removed the burgers. Toast until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Brushing them first with walnut oil gives them a nutty taste that nicely complements the beef.

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Here’s the whole set of burgers in the book: Ultimate Turkey Burgers, Herbed Turkey Burgers, Asian Turkey Burgers, Tuna Burgers, Salmon Burgers, Halibut Burgers, and Lentil-Nut Patties.

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Substitute ground buffalo for the ground beef in any of these recipes. Because buffalo is so lean, add slightly more broth or wine.

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Spiced Ketchup

Spice up bottled ketchup by mixing 1 teaspoon ground allspice, ½ teaspoon ground cloves, and ¼ teaspoon garlic powder into 1 cup ketchup.

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Italian-Inspired Basil and Pancetta Meat Loaf

There are two kinds of meat loaf: smooth or chunky. We’re unabashed fans of the latter because there’s more tooth per bite. (We’re mostly opposed to meat you can eat with a spoon.) Laying pancetta over the meat loaf keeps it moist and flavorful. Ask your butcher slice the pancetta paper thin. Makes 6 servings

Olive oil for greasing the loaf pan

1 day-old Kaiser roll or other white roll, torn into bits

2 garlic cloves, quartered

1 cup packed basil leaves

¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 ounce)

1 teaspoon salt

1½ pounds 90% to 93% lean ground beef (see Note)

¼ cup pine nuts

1 large egg, lightly beaten in a small bowl

3 ounces pancetta, thinly sliced

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a 9 × 5 × 3-inch loaf pan with olive oil; set it aside.

Place the roll, garlic, basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and salt in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade; process until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl.

Make sure your hands are clean and dry, then mix in the ground beef, pine nuts, and egg by hand, working the basil mixture into the meat without destroying its fibers.

When the mixture is uniform, mound it into the prepared loaf pan, about like a 10-inch football cut in half lengthwise. Lay the pancetta slices over the top of the meat loaf, overlapping the slices so that they all fit.

Bake until the pancetta is sizzling, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 155°F (our preference) or 165°F (the USDA recommendation), 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. (The temperature will rise by about 5 degrees as it rests.) Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes before unmolding and slicing.

Note: Leaner ground beef is preferred because it produces a more roastlike texture. The fat is also not rendered off as effectively as it is with burgers, given the bread crumbs.

Variations: Substitute ½ cup oregano leaves and ½ cup parsley leaves for the basil.

Substitute Asiago, Pecorino Romano, or a hard, aged Gouda for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Substitute chopped walnut pieces for the pine nuts.

Beef and Vegetable Meat Loaf

Portobello mushroom caps give this meat loaf an earthy taste. Make sure you mince the mushroom caps finely; do it in a food processor, if desired. Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons canola oil, plus additional for the baking sheet

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 celery rib, finely chopped

1 pound portobello mushroom caps, finely minced

1½ pounds 90% to 93% lean ground beef

1 large egg, lightly beaten in a small bowl

½ cup fresh bread crumbs, such as from a day-old roll or 2 bread slices

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon minced rosemary leaves or ½ teaspoon crushed dried rosemary

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, then add the onion and celery. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the minced mushrooms; continue cooking, stirring often, until they release