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One 4-to 4½-pound boneless pork loin roast, trimmed of all surface fat and butterflied

1 pound sliced bacon

Butcher’s twine

Canola oil for the grill grate, if using

Mix the sauerkraut, mustard, gin, and caraway seeds in a medium bowl.

Lay the loin rough side up on your work surface. Spread the sauerkraut mixture down the center, leaving a ½-inch edge at each end. Fold the loin closed.

Lay the bacon over the top of the meat, overlapping each strip by ½ inch. Tie the bacon in place with butcher’s twine, wrapping the twine around the roast to close it and hold its round shape but also wrapping it the long way over the roast. (You can stuff the pork up to 24 hours in advance; cover and refrigerate, but let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before proceeding.)

To roast: Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the loin bacon side up in a large roasting pan or broiler pan. Roast until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the loin without its touching the stuffing registers 155°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation), about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Let the loin stand on a carving board at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving.

To barbecue: Heat half a gas grill to medium heat while placing a drip pan or disposable aluminum roasting pan under the unheated section of the grate; or build a medium-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill, then rake the coals to the perimeter and place a drip pan or disposable aluminum pan in the center of the grill. Dab canola oil on some paper towels, then lightly oil the section of the grate over the drip pan. Place the loin bacon side up over the drip pan, cover the grill, and barbecue for 3 hours, adding extra charcoal briquettes as the fire dies down, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the loin registers 155°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation). Move the loin directly over the fire and cook, turning onto all sides, until the bacon gets crispy, about 5 minutes. Let the loin stand on a carving board for 5 minutes before serving.

Cold Sliced Pork Loin in Szechuan Garlic Sauce

Here’s a make-ahead party dish: the pork cooks and then marinates overnight in a garlic sauce. Slice it up and serve it cold. Makes 10 servings

One 3-pound boneless center-cut pork loin, trimmed of all surface fat

Butcher’s twine

10 medium scallions

One 4-inch piece of peeled fresh ginger, cut into 8 rounds

2 teaspoons salt

6 tablespoons soy sauce

6 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons black Chinese vinegar or 1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar and ½ tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 to 2 tablespoons chili oil

3 medium cucumbers

Cut the pork loin into 3 pieces; tie each piece once around its middle with a piece of butcher’s twine.

Place the loin pieces in a large pot or Dutch oven. Cover with water to a depth of 1 inch. Slice 8 scallions lengthwise; add them to the pot. Also add the ginger and salt. Cover and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Remove the pot from the stove and place in the refrigerator to chill for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. (Set a doubled kitchen towel under the pot to protect your refrigerator shelf from the heat.)

Mince the green parts of the remaining 2 scallions. Mix these with the soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil, water, black vinegar or its substitutes, rice vinegar, sugar, and chili oil in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Peel the cucumbers, slice them into thin rounds, and make a bed on a serving platter. Remove the loin pieces from the cooking liquid, cut off the twine, and slice into thin rounds. (Discard the cooking liquid.) Place over the cucumbers and pour the sauce on top.

Variations: Add 4 dried red Chinese chiles to the pot with the ginger.

Add 1 star anise pod or two 4-inch cinnamon sticks to the pot with the