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Pork and Peanut Stir-Fry

Mirin, the sweetened Japanese rice wine, balances the red pepper flakes and vinegar. Makes 4 servings

1 pound boneless center-cut pork loin, trimmed of surface fat

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons mirin

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (see Note)

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

3 celery ribs, thinly sliced

3 ounces snow peas, trimmed and thinly sliced

½ cup roasted unsalted peanuts

2 teaspoons cornstarch whisked in a small bowl with 2 tablespoons water

Cut the loin into ¼-inch-thick rounds, then cut these into thin strips. Set aside.

Whisk the soy sauce, mirin, sesame oil, rice vinegar, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl; set aside as well.

Heat a large nonstick wok or high-sided sauté pan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the peanut oil; then add the onion, garlic, and ginger. Stir-fry until aromatic, until the onion has started to turn translucent, about 1 minute.

Add the pork; cook, tossing constantly, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Add the celery, snow peas, and peanuts. Stir-fry until glistening, about 2 minutes.

Pour in the soy sauce mixture, bring to a simmer, and cook for 1 minute.

Swirl in the cornstarch mixture, bring to a simmer, and cook until thickened and bubbling, stirring frequently, about 30 seconds.

Note: Remember that chili oils interact over time, rendering various spices less subtle and aromatic. Replace red pepper flakes at least once a year.

Variations: Substitute any number of vegetables for the celery and snow peas: broccoli florets, cauliflower florets, peeled and sliced water chestnuts, peeled and sliced bamboo shoots, green beans cut into 1-inch segments, and/or thinly sliced carrots.

Hunan Pork Stir-Fry

Hunan cooking often uses lamb, but pork is a flavorful—and quicker-cooking—alternative. The sauce replicates a spicy and sweet Hunan barbecue sauce. It’ll only be as hot as the red chili sauce you use. Go for broke and double the amount—or pass extra on the side. Makes 4 servings

1 pound boneless center-cut pork loin, trimmed of surface fat

1 tablespoon peanut oil

6 medium scallions, thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

2 medium bell peppers, preferably 1 red and 1 yellow, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 teaspoons Asian red chili sauce

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons cornstarch whisked with 1½ tablespoons water in a small bowl

Cut the loin into ¼-inch-thick rounds, then cut these into thin strips. Set aside.

Heat a large nonstick wok or high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the peanut oil; add the scallions, garlic, and ginger. Cook, tossing constantly, until fragrant, about 20 seconds.

Add the bell pepper strips and onion slices; cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Then add the pork; cook, stirring and tossing all the while, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, rice vinegar, chili sauce, and toasted sesame oil. Bring to a full simmer.

Stir in the cornstarch mixture; cook, stirring often, until thickened, about 20 seconds. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside for 2 minutes before serving.

Variations: You can substitute any protein in this dish so long as you use about 1 pound and you cut it into matchstick strips: boneless skinless chicken breasts, lamb loin, sirloin steak, or turkey cutlets. You can also substitute small shrimp, cleaned and deveined, or small bay scallops.

Vietnamese-Inspired Black Pepper Pork Stir-Fry

Traditional Vietnamese black pepper sauces are tamed by caramelized sugar to create a sweet/fiery combination that cries out for rice or potatoes. Make sure your black pepper is quite fresh; the heat of the peppercorns dulls over time. Makes 4 servings

1 pound boneless center-cut pork loin, trimmed