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2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 teaspoon salt

6 garlic cloves, halved

2 tablespoons sugar

2 to 3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup vegetable broth

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 cups mung or soy bean sprouts

Cut the loin into ¼-inch-thick rounds, then cut these into thin strips. Season with salt.

Heat a large, high-sided skillet over medium heat. Swirl in 1 tablespoon peanut oil, then add the pork and brown well, about 2 minutes, stirring often. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil, then the garlic. Cook, stirring constantly, until aromatic, about 1 minute.

Add the sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sugar melts, turns golden, and begins to caramelize, about 3 minutes.

Add the pepper, stir for 5 seconds, then pour in the broth and fish sauce. Stir until boiling and smooth, about 1 minute. Add the pork and any accumulated juices; cook for 30 seconds.

Add the sprouts, toss, cover, and remove from the heat for 5 minutes before serving.

From the Leg

Fresh Ham

A ham comes from a pig’s back leg, usually from the middle of the “thigh” to the hip. Hams are available “fresh” (meaning raw) or “cured” (that is, partially cooked). For this recipe, use either a bone-in or boneless fresh ham. If the former, choose the shank-end, a ham from closer to the shin. If the latter, choose one from the butt end; this cut should be butterflied by your butcher so that it will lie flat. Makes 12 to 14 servings

2 cups apple cider

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon honey mustard

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon minced sage leaves or ½ teaspoon dried sage

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cloves

2 garlic cloves, crushed

One 8-to 10-pound bone-in or boneless fresh ham

Butcher’s twine, if using a boneless ham

Whisk the cider, wine, mustard, salt, thyme, sage, pepper, cloves, and garlic in a large bowl.

Place the ham in a large roasting pan; pour the cider marinade over it. Turn to coat, then cover and refrigerate for 48 hours, turning the meat occasionally so that it is well coated with the marinade.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. While the oven heats, set the roasting pan with the ham and marinade out on the counter. If you’re using a butterflied, boneless ham, roll it closed and secure it in at least three places with butcher’s twine.

Place the pan in the oven and roast the ham, basting it frequently with the marinade, until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 155°F (our preference) or 160°F (the USDA recommendation), 2 hours and 40 minutes to 3 hours and 20 minutes, depending on the size of the ham, its fat content, and the desired degree of doneness.

Transfer to a carving board, tent with aluminum foil, and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, skim any visible fat from the pan juices, strain them into a small saucepan, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until slightly reduced, about 2 minutes; then serve with the carved ham.

Baked Cured Ham with Two Glazes

Choose a cured—or smoked—ham that is either partially cooked (brought to an internal temperature of 137°F to kill bacteria) or fully cooked (brought to about 148°F). Both must still be cooked at home. Ready-to-eat hams are cooked to a much higher temperature and are not recommended for this recipe. Makes 12 to 14 servings

One 12-pound smoked ham (can be spiral-cut)

One of the two glazes that follow

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Place the ham in a large roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil.

Bake until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat without touching bone registers 130°F, 1½ to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, whisk either of the two glazes in a small bowl.

Remove the foil and baste the ham with some of the marinade. Continue baking, open to the heat and basting frequently, until an instant-read meat thermometer