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Stir in the collards, salt, and pepper. Cover and continue simmering until the greens and lamb are quite tender, about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Variation: Use any bitter, leafy green, such as kale, mustard greens, spinach, or escarole.

Stewed Greek Meatballs with Artichokes, Dill, and Lemon

Mince the red onion so that there are no bits of onion visible in the meatballs. This stew can be made the day before; reheat it over medium heat until bubbling. Makes 6 servings

1½ pounds ground lamb

1 large egg

¼ cup fresh bread crumbs (see Note)

1 small red onion, minced

2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons minced dill fronds or 1 teaspoon dried dill

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

¼ cup olive oil

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 chopped anchovy fillets or 2 teaspoons anchovy paste

2 cups vegetable broth

1 large tomato, chopped

One 12-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and halved; or one 14-ounce can artichoke hearts packed in water, drained, rinsed, and halved

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1 bay leaf

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.

Mix the ground lamb, egg, fresh bread crumbs, red onion, oregano, dill, and ½ teaspoon pepper in a large bowl until well combined. Form into 16 golf ball–sized balls.

Place ½ cup flour on a large plate. Heat a large saucepan or casserole over medium heat. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Dip several of the meatballs in the flour, coating them completely; add them to the pan. Fry until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes, turning occasionally. Transfer to a plate and repeat with more of the meatballs.

Once all the meatballs have been browned, pour off any grease or rendered fat in the pan, set it back over medium heat, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.

Add the yellow onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the capers, cinnamon, and anchovies or anchovy paste. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds; then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons flour until the vegetables are well coated.

Add the broth in a slow, steady stream, whisking all the while to keep the sauce from clumping. Bring the sauce to a light simmer, whisking all the while.

Stir in the tomato, artichoke hearts, tomato paste, lemon juice, salt, bay leaf, and the remaining ½ teaspoon pepper. Return the meatballs and any accumulated juices on the plate to the pot, submerging the balls somewhat in the sauce. Bring to a simmer.

Cover and place in the oven. Bake until the sauce is reduced somewhat, about 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Discard the bay leaf before serving.

Note: Make fresh bread crumbs by removing the crust from a day-old slice of bread and chopping it coarsely in the food processor. You can also mince the crustless bread on a cutting board, then continue to rock the knife through the pieces until they look like coarse snowflakes.

Variations: Reduce the ground lamb to 1 pound and use ½ pound lean ground beef with the remaining lamb.

Add ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes with the capers.

For a heartier dish, substitute beef broth for the vegetable broth.

Stir ½ pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined, into the stew during the final 5 minutes of cooking; continue baking until the shrimp are pink and firm.

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Venison and Rabbit

Here are two game meats—although they’re hardly game anymore. Wild venison and rabbit are not available for sale—and in fact illegal to sell—in almost all commercial markets. Instead, high-quality purveyors are now selling farm-raised venison and rabbit. These meats are also available in overnight drop shipments from suppliers on the Web.

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Venison Stew with White Wine and Pumpkin

Although venison shoulder makes the lightest stew, you can substitute cubed leg meat for a heartier concoction.