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1 tablespoon unsalted butter

6 ounces pancetta, chopped

2½ s boneless venison shoulder, trimmed of surface fat and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced

6 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

Two 4-inch cinnamon sticks

2 cups fruity white wine, such as a Riesling

One 3-pound pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into 2-inch pieces, about 6 cups

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Melt the butter in a large, oven-safe pot, Dutch oven, or casserole set over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until frizzled at the edges and browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Place the meat in the pot; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until well browned, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.

Add the onion to the pot; cook, stirring often, until softened and sweet, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 20 seconds.

Add the cumin seeds, oregano, and cinnamon sticks; cook, stirring often, until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Pour in the white wine and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the pot’s bottom.

Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pot. Stir in the pumpkin pieces. Bring to a full simmer.

Cover and place in the oven. Bake until the venison is fork-tender, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours. Check the sauce for salt and discard the cinnamon sticks.

Variations: Just about any hard squash will work in place of the pumpkin; try acorn, butternut, or blue Hubbard. Cut 2-inch pieces so they soften without dissolving into the stew.

Cider-Marinated Venison Loin

A venison loin has a deeper, richer taste: more gamy but also more indulgent. Trim the loin of its silverskin, the translucent membrane that lies along the curve of the meat; otherwise, the meat will curl as it cooks. To remove the silver skin, slice underneath and along the meat’s surface plane. Makes 6 servings

2 cups apple cider

¼ cup orange juice

¼ cup maple syrup

3 tablespoons walnut oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

One 2½-pound venison loin, trimmed, silver skin removed

Butcher’s twine

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 whole cloves

Canola oil for the grill grate

Whisk the cider, orange juice, maple syrup, walnut oil, mustard, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves in a medium bowl until smooth. Set aside.

Tie the loin in three places, wrapping butcher’s twine around the meat each time and tying it off so the loin will stay cylindrical as it cooks. Place the loin in a large roasting pan or large baking dish; gently massage the salt and pepper into the meat. Use the pointed ends of the cloves to push them in like tacks at various places on the loin.

Pour the apple cider marinade over the loin, cover, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours, turning occasionally so the loin is coated.

To roast: Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the loin in a large, deep roasting pan and roast for 15 minutes, basting generously three times with the marinade. Continue roasting undisturbed until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the loin registers 130°F (our preference for medium-rare), 145°F (the USDA recommendation for medium-rare), or 160°F (the USDA recommendation for medium), 10 to 18 more minutes, depending on the temperature chosen.

To grill: Preheat a gas grill to high heat or prepare a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Lightly oil the grate with canola oil, then set it 4 to 6 inches over the heat source. Remove the loin from the marinade and place it directly over the heat. Cover and grill for 15 minutes, turning