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1 cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon paprika

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon stemmed thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Ginger Cream (recipe follows)

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

Spread the canola oil around a large lipped baking sheet with a paper towel. Set the squash cut side down on it. Bake until the flesh is quite tender, about 45 minutes.

Cool on a baking rack, then scoop the flesh into a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Process until pureed. You should have about 1½ cups; if you have more, reserve it for another use, such as the Ginger Squash Puree or the squash filling for stuffed pasta.

Decrease the oven temperature to 375°F. Lightly butter a 2-quart soufflé dish; set aside.

Place the egg yolks in a large bowl and whisk until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan set over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk constantly for 30 seconds, just until pastelike and sizzling.

Whisk in the milk in a slow, steady stream. Continue whisking over the heat until smooth, thickened, and bubbling, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the mustard, paprika, nutmeg, thyme, salt, and pepper until smooth.

Slowly whisk this hot milk mixture into the yolks; continue whisking until smooth. Whisk in the butternut squash puree. Set aside.

Beat the egg whites in a large bowl with an electric mixer at high speed until soft, droopy peaks can be formed with the tip of a rubber spatula.

Fold half the egg whites into the squash mixture with a rubber spatula until smooth. Mound the remaining egg whites onto the top and slowly fold them in, using long, gentle arcs, just until there’s no more white visible in the mixture. Pour and mound this mixture in the prepared soufflé dish.

Bake until puffed and lightly browned, about 45 minutes. Serve without delay, pouring 1 tablespoon of the warm Ginger Cream over each helping.

Ginger Cream

This savory sauce is also great with roasts—or add 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar with the salt for a dessert sauce. Makes about ¼ cup

¼ cup heavy cream

One 4-inch piece of ginger, peeled and cut into 6 pieces

¼ teaspoon salt

Heat the cream, ginger, and salt over low heat in a small saucepan until bubbles fizz around the pan’s inner edge. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside on the stove to keep warm. Fish out the ginger pieces before serving.

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Vegetable Casseroles

While these dishes require a bit of preparation, they’re all make-ahead wonders. Prepare any of these casseroles without baking them, cover, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Or bake it off and refrigerate or freeze individual portions for warming up at another time.

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Brussels Sprouts and Potato Gratin

A traditional, French gratin hasn’t any cheese; the potato starch naturally thickens the cream, creating a luscious, creamy side dish. Makes 8 servings

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the pan

1 large red onion, chopped

1 pound Brussels sprouts, stems and outer leaves removed, then thinly sliced, almost shredded

2½ pounds yellow-fleshed potatoes, preferably Yukon golds

1 tablespoon stemmed thyme or 2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup vegetable broth

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 13 × 9-inch baking dish; set aside.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring often, until golden, about 10 minutes.

Add the Brussels sprouts and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes. Set aside off the heat.

Peel the potatoes, then thinly slice them the long way into strips no more than ¼ inch thick. It’s best to use a mandoline, but you can use a knife if it’s quite sharp.

Layer half the