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potatoes across the bottom of the buttered baking dish. Spread the Brussels sprouts mixture evenly over the potatoes. Sprinkle evenly with the thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, the pepper, and nutmeg; then top with the remaining potato slices. Sprinkle the remaining ½ teaspoon salt over the dish, then pour the cream and broth evenly over the dish. Dot with the remaining 3 tablespoons butter.

Bake until the potatoes are golden and tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 1½ hours. During the last 30 minutes, use a large spoon to catch some of the juices and cream bubbling up between the potatoes; baste the potatoes two or three times to moisten them on top.

To cool: Let stand on a wire rack at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Leek, Apple, and Potato Gratin: Substitute 3 large leeks for the onion. Use only the white and pale green parts; halve them lengthwise, wash carefully of grit, and slice thinly. Also substitute 2 large tart apples, such as Granny Smith apples, for the Brussels sprouts.

Mushroom, Shallot, and Potato Gratin: Substitute 6 medium shallots for the onion; also substitute 2 pounds cleaned and thinly sliced white button or cremini mushrooms for the Brussels sprouts. Cook the mushrooms until they have released their moisture and it has almost all evaporated, about 9 minutes.

Chard and Potato Gratin: Substitute 2 pounds Swiss chard, washed, stemmed, and roughly chopped, for the Brussels sprouts. Also add 2 minced garlic cloves with the chard. If desired, omit the thyme and nutmeg; use 2 teaspoons fennel seeds in their place.

Broccoli and Potato Gratin: Use a yellow onion instead of a red onion. Substitute 4 cups finely chopped broccoli florets for the Brussels sprouts.

Baked Zucchini Casserole

This rich casserole with ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano should be cooled at least 20 minutes so it can be cut into squares when served. Makes 9 servings

6 medium zucchini

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium onion, finely chopped

3 large eggs plus 1 large egg white, whisked until fairly smooth in a small bowl

¾ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

½ cup regular or low-fat ricotta cheese

(do not use fat-free)

½ cup plain dried bread crumbs

1 tablespoon chopped dill fronds or 2 teaspoons dried dill

2 tablespoons canola oil

Shred the zucchini through the large holes of a box grater. Toss with the salt and place in a colander in the sink to drain for 15 minutes.

Squeeze out as much of the moisture from the zucchini as you can, working in batches. Place the zucchini in a large bowl; set aside.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring often, until soft and golden, about 7 minutes.

Pour the contents of the skillet into the bowl with the zucchini. Cool for 5 minutes, then stir in the beaten eggs and egg white, the Parmigiano-Reggiano, ricotta, bread crumbs, and dill.

Place the canola oil in a 9-inch square baking pan; tilt the pan so the oil covers its bottom and sides. Place the oiled pan in the oven for 5 minutes to heat it through.

Pour in the zucchini mixture, spread it evenly to the sides, and bake until slightly mounded, a little browned, and set when tapped, about 50 minutes. Set the pan on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes. Once fully cooled, the casserole can be covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Cut the casserole out of the pan in squares.

Vegetable Parmesan with Eggplant, Zucchini, and Mushrooms

Here’s a no-fry vegetable casserole version of an Italian-American favorite. Makes 8 servings

2 small eggplants

2 medium zucchini

2 medium yellow summer squash

1 tablespoon salt

3 large portobello mushroom caps

½ cup olive oil

2 medium onions, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon chopped oregano leaves or 1½ teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3½ cups canned diced tomatoes