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dish a little over a foot long. However, a 14-inch cast-iron skillet works just as well. Although the dish is traditionally cooked in a specially designed well over an open flame, an oven provides the radiant heat we can’t reproduce with a top-of-the-range, flat-burner stove. At the end, the rice should be creamy but with a little bite, a good contrast to the meat and/or shellfish. So here’s a year’s worth of our favorite rice dish, one for every season.

Spring Paella with Lamb, Pancetta, Peas, and Artichokes

Makes 6 servings

5 cups (1 quart plus 1 cup) chicken broth

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

1½ pounds lamb loin, trimmed of any surface fat

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

6 ounces thick-cut pancetta, diced

1 large leek, white and pale green parts only, sliced lengthwise, washed carefully of any sand in the inner rings, and thinly sliced

8 baby artichokes, halved, dark outer leaves removed, and stems trimmed

1 cup dry, light white wine, preferably a Spanish white

2 tablespoons chopped rosemary leaves

2½ cups Arborio or Valencia rice

1½ cups shelled fresh peas or thawed frozen peas

Heat the broth and saffron in a medium saucepan over low heat until steaming but not simmering. Reduce the heat to very low, cover, and keep warm.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Season the lamb loin with salt and pepper.

Heat a 14-inch paella pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the loin. Brown on all sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Add the pancetta; cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes.

Add the leek; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the baby artichoke halves; cook, stirring often, until aromatic, about 1 minute.

Add the wine and rosemary; bring the sauce to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits in the pan. Simmer until the wine has been reduced to a thick glaze, stirring once in a while, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the rice to coat well with the sauce; cook, stirring constantly, until translucent, about 1 minute.

Pour in the warmed broth mixture and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, slice the lamb into 1-inch pieces. When the rice has cooked for 10 minutes, tuck the slices into the simmering sauce. Sprinkle the peas over the top.

Place in the oven and bake until the liquid has been mostly absorbed and the rice is fairly tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, set on a wire rack, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Summer Paella with Lobster, Mussels, Scallops, and Rosé Wine

Makes 6 servings

3 cups chicken broth

1 cup bottled clam juice

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

¼ cup olive oil

1 large yellow onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

4 plum or Roma tomatoes, chopped

1 cup rosé wine

2 teaspoons packed minced oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2½ cups Arborio or Valencia rice

One 2-pound live lobster (see Note)

½ pound green beans, stems trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

1½ pounds mussels, debearded and scrubbed of any sand

1 pound sea scallops

Heat the broth, clam juice, and saffron in a medium saucepan until steaming but not simmering. Reduce the heat to very low, cover, and keep warm without boiling.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Heat a 14-inch paella pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Stir in the tomatoes; continue cooking, stirring often, until they begin to break down, about 3 minutes.

Pour in the wine; bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits in the pan. Raise the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about