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Stir in the oregano, thyme, salt, and pepper. Then stir in the rice and the warmed broth. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, set the lobster on a lipped cutting board to catch any internal juices. Plunge the tip of a sharp knife into its head about ½ inch behind its eye stalks, thereby piercing the brain and instantly killing it. Slice the lobster in half lengthwise.

Stir the green beans into the simmering rice, then set the mussels around the perimeter of the pan, partially submerging them. Arrange the scallops in the pan in a circle inside the mussels, partially submerging them as well, and then lay the lobster halves in the center of the pan cut side down.

Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is fairly tender. Transfer to a wire rack, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and set aside for 10 minutes. If desired, remove the lobster meat from the shell and place on top of the paella before serving.

Note: If you don’t want to work with a whole live lobster, substitute two frozen, in-shell, 12-ounce tails, thawed and split in half lengthwise.

Autumn Paella with Chicken, Sausage, Shrimp, and Olives

Makes 8 servings

1 quart (4 cups) chicken broth

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

3 tablespoons olive oil

¾ pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, cut into 2-inch pieces

3 pounds chicken thighs (see Note)

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

13/4 cups canned diced tomatoes

½ cup dry sherry, dry vermouth, or dry white wine

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

2½ cups Arborio or Valencia rice

¼ pound medium shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined

½ cup halved pitted green olives

Heat the broth, salt, and saffron over medium heat until steaming; do not boil. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and keep warm without simmering.

Heat a 14-inch paella pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the sausage. Cook until browned, turning occasionally, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large plate.

Add the chicken thighs; cook, turning a couple of times, until browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to the plate as well.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Meanwhile, pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan. Add the onion and bell pepper; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Pour in the tomatoes and the sherry, vermouth, or wine. Stir in the smoked paprika and thyme; bring to a simmer. Continue cooking until almost all the liquid in the pan has been absorbed, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in the rice; continue stirring over the heat until translucent, about 1 minute.

Pour in the warmed broth mixture and bring to a full simmer. Reduce the heat somewhat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Return the chicken thighs and sausage to the pan, tucking them into the simmering rice.

Arrange the shrimp over the top of the dish, pressing them down just slightly into the sauce. Sprinkle the olives over the dish.

Place in the oven and bake until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into one of the chicken thighs without touching bone registers 165°F (our preference) or 180°F (the USDA recommendation), 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Note: You can use skin-on or skinless thighs. If you choose the lower-fat, skinless version, brown them in step 2 only about 5 minutes, turning once.

Winter Paella with Rabbit, Quail, and Duck Confit

Makes 6 servings

6 tablespoons olive oil

3 quails, quartered

¾ pound chorizo, preferably dried Spanish chorizo, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 small rabbit, quartered

1 quart (4 cups) beef or veal broth, plus additional as necessary (see Note)

1 cup red wine

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

2 duck confit legs

1 large