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Stir well, cover, and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the black-eyed peas are quite tender and the stew has thickened somewhat, about 30 minutes.

Variations: Add 1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced, or 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced, with the celery.

Omit the ham hock. Add 2 teaspoons smoked paprika with the thyme. After the stew has cooked for 1 hour and 15 minutes, stir in 8 ounces chopped boneless skinless chicken thighs or chopped boneless dark turkey meat.

Cuban Black Beans

Here’s a pot of black beans that’s great as a side for Southwestern or other spicy dishes. While the beans can cook pretty much unaided for the first part of the recipe, they need to be watched carefully during the last 20 minutes to make sure they don’t stick and scorch. Makes 8 servings

1 pound dried black beans

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

1 celery rib, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon minced oregano leaves

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce

2 bay leaves

One 4-inch cinnamon stick

6 cups vegetable broth

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

Place the beans in a large bowl, cover with cool water to a depth of 2 inches, and set aside to soak for at least 8 hours or up to 12 hours. If desired, change the water once or twice to aid in the reduction of intestinal distress. Alternatively, bring the beans and enough water to cover them by 1 inch to a boil in a large saucepan; drain, place in a large bowl, cover with cool water to a depth of 2 inches, and set aside to soak for 2 hours.

Heat a large pot over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, then add the onions, bell pepper, and celery. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Stir in the cilantro, oregano, salt, pepper, hot red pepper sauce, bay leaves, and cinnamon stick. Cook, stirring all the while, until aromatic, about 20 seconds.

Stir in the beans, then pour in the broth and enough additional water to cover them by a depth of 2 inches. Raise the heat to high and bring to a simmer.

Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are tender and the whole thing is just a little soupier than baked beans, 2 to 2½ hours.

Mash some of the beans against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon, then stir well so they thicken the mixture somewhat. Stir in the vinegar and sugar; continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the beans are very tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and cinnamon stick before serving.

Variations: Add 1 medium carrot, shredded through the large holes of a box grater, with the onion.

Add 1 ancho chile, stemmed and seeded, or 1 chipotle in adobo, seeded, with the garlic.

Cut a large orange into quarters, add to the pot with the broth, and simmer with the beans. Discard the orange before serving.

Take the skin off 2 duck confit legs; add them to the pot with the broth. Remove the legs when done, debone the meat, shred it, and stir it back into the beans.

Chop 1 pound boneless skinless chicken thighs into ½-inch pieces, then add them to the pot with the vinegar.

Cuban Black Beans and Rice: Serve this dish over cooked white rice, ladling the beans over the rice bed. You can also serve South American Picadillo on the side.

Black Bean Soup: After you’ve mashed some of the beans to the sides of the pot, add up to 4 cups (1 quart) additional broth to thin the mixture out into a soup; continue cooking until the beans are tender, about 20 minutes.

Persian-Inspired Beans with Preserved Lemon and Dates

These sweet beans would be a welcome alternative to baked beans at any barbecue. Look for preserved lemons in the Middle Eastern section of your market. They’re quite salty, so there’s no additional salt in this dish.