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2 cups dried pinto beans

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large red onion, chopped

2 large carrots peeled, halved lengthwise, and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cloves

1½ quarts (6 cups) vegetable broth

¼ cup chopped pitted dates (do not use sugared dates)

2 preserved lemons, chopped

Place the beans in a large bowl, cover with cool water to a depth of 2 inches, and set aside to soak for at least 8 hours or overnight. If desired, change the water once during soaking. For a quicker soak, bring the beans and enough water to cover them by 1 inch to a boil in a large saucepan, drain, place in a large bowl, cover with cool water to a depth of 2 inches, and set aside to soak for 2 hours.

Heat a large saucepan or soup pot over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the onion and carrots. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, and cloves. Cook, stirring constantly, until aromatic, about 20 seconds.

Pour in the broth; stir in the dates and preserved lemons. Drain the beans in a colander set in the sink and rinse well. Add to the pan and bring to a simmer, stirring frequently.

Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour, stirring once or twice.

Uncover and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender and have just begun to break down, about 1 more hour.

Persian-Style Beans with Lamb: Add an additional 2 tablespoons oil to the pot after you’ve cooked the onions and celery; add 1 pound cubed and trimmed lamb stew meat, brown well (about 5 minutes), and then continue with the recipe.

Black Bean and Plantain Puree

This is a sort of Latin American equivalent of mashed potatoes. Use it as a bed for thin white-fleshed fish fillets or Barbecued Turkey. Makes 4 servings as a side

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 small red onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 large ripe (almost black) yellow plantain, peeled and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

1¼ cups canned black beans, drained and rinsed

1/3 cup vegetable broth

1 tablespoon lime juice

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, then add the onion and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Toss in the plantain slices; cook, turning often, until softened, about 3 minutes.

Add the chili powder, cumin, and salt; cook, stirring constantly, until aromatic, about 20 seconds.

Add the beans and broth; bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 3 minutes.

Pour the contents of the pan into a large blender or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; add the lime juice and hot red pepper sauce. Blend or process until chunky or smooth, your preference. Serve warm or at room temperature—or place in a container, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Variations: Add 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped, with the onion—or stir the pepper raw into the puree, thereby giving it a little crunch.

Add 1 seeded and chopped fresh jalapeño chile with the spices.

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Can’t get enough beans? Try Black Bean Dip, White Bean and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip, Lime Bean and Kale Soup, White Bean Soup with Leeks, Tarragon, and Thyme, Escarole Soup with White Beans and Roasted Garlic, Turkey Chili Verde, and Spaghetti Squash, Cannellini Beans, and Broccoli Raab.

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Beer-Baked Beans

A combination of chili sauce, beer, molasses, and spices will make this an irresistible side at your next barbecue. And you don’t have to tell a soul it’s a vegetarian dish. Makes 6 servings

3½ cups canned pinto beans, drained and rinsed (two 15-ounce cans)

One 12-ounce bottle beer, preferably an American lager or a Mexican dark beer

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped

1/3 cup bottled