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of bread, toasted or not, to eat the sandwich in a more or less mannerly fashion. Serve with pickled onion rings and coleslaw.

1 OR 2 SLICES LEVAIN BREAD OR OTHER RUSTIC BREAD

MUENSTER, MOZZARELLA, AGED CHEDDAR, OR YOUR FAVORITE CHEESE, THINLY SLICED

DAN’S SPICY TAPENADE

SLICED TOMATOES

CHOPPED CILANTRO AND JALAPEÑO CHILE

SLICED CUCUMBERS

Lay the cheese on the bread and toast it in a toaster oven until the cheese is bubbly and starting to melt. Remove and spread a thick layer of tapenade over the cheese, then add a layer of sliced tomatoes. Chop the cilantro and chiles together, sprinkle over the tomatoes, then top with cucumbers. You probably won’t need salt because of the tapenade. Add a second layer of bread if you like, toasted or not. Slice in half. Have a lot of napkins nearby.

Salsa Fresca

Makes about 1⁄2 cup

Although it’s easily purchased, those who love salsa and find it indispensable often prefer to make their own. This is the one to eat with Dan’s poisoned eggs, a burrito, or stirred into a bowl of pinto beans. It’s also for chips. Although salsa fresca will keep, it’s much better eaten sooner than later.

2 MEDIUM RIPE RED TOMATOES

1 JALAPEÑO CHILE OR SERRANO, FOR MORE HEAT AND MORE FLAVOR

10 CILANTRO SPRIGS, CHOPPED

2 OR MORE TABLESPOONS FINELY DICED WHITE OR RED ONION

SALT

FRESH LIME JUICE, TO TASTE

A FEW TEASPOONS COLD WATER OR OLIVE OIL

Cut the tomatoes in half around the equator, pull out the seeds with your fingers, then chop the tomatoes into small pieces and put them in a bowl. Finely dice either chile, including the seeds, to give the salsa more heat. Add them to the tomatoes along with the cilantro, onion, and a few pinches of salt. Stir in the lime juice to taste and add enough water or olive oil to loosen the mixture.

Frijoles, or Pretty Plain Pinto Beans for Frito Pies, Burritos, and More

Makes about 5 cups

Once you’ve got cooked pinto beans on hand, you can enjoy a hot bowl of them laced with a salsa fresca use them to make a Frito pie or drain them, mash them up a bit, and put them in a burrito or turn them into a soup. You can also freeze some for another time if you’ve made more than you can contemplate eating over the course of a few days.

If you want your beans to have a smoky flavor, stir in some smoked Spanish paprika, starting with a teaspoon and working up from there.

2 CUPS DRY PINTO BEANS, RINSED

1 MEDIUM ONION, CHOPPED

2 GARLIC CLOVES, CHOPPED

1 TEASPOON DRIED OREGANO

SALT

1 TEASPOON SMOKED PAPRIKA, PLUS MORE, TO TASTE

COTIJA OR CHEDDAR CHEESE, FOR SERVING

1. To speed the cooking time, first cover the beans with boiling water and let them stand for an hour or just while you chop your onion and gather ingredients. Then, drain the beans.

2. Put the beans in a soup pot, cover with 8 cups (2 quarts) water, and boil for 10 minutes. Remove any foam that collects on the surface, then add the onion, garlic, and oregano. Lower the heat so the beans barely boil and continue cooking, partially covered, until they’re tender, 1 to 11⁄2 hours, adding 2 teaspoons salt about halfway through.

3. When the beans are done, taste for salt again. Add smoked paprika to taste if using. Serve in bowls with their broth, fresh tomato salsa, and a sprinkling of cheese, such as Cotija or Cheddar.

Some Variations

1. Slowly fry a sliced onion in two tablespoons oil with several pinches dried oregano and 1 teaspoon ground cumin. Then add the beans and water, and cook.

2. Add a dried red chile to the pot while the beans cook. You can stem and seed the chile first or not.

3. If you’re handy with a pressure cooker, skip the soaking and cook the beans with the aromatics at 15 pounds for 25 minutes. Drop the pressure, remove the lid, and check to make sure they’re done. If not, return the lid, bring the pot back up to pressure, and cook 5minutes longer.

Breakfast Burrito for Day or Night

This is a simple burrito consisting of eggs softly scrambled in butter and enfolded in a big warm whole-wheat