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What We Eat When We Eat Alone - Deborah Madison [24]

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tortilla flecked with bits of bran. Leave it plain or add your favorite salsa.

You’ll need two skillets, one for the tortilla and the other for the eggs. You’ll be warming the tortilla and making the eggs at the same time. It’s no big deal.

1 LARGE TORTILLA, PREFERABLY WHOLE WHEAT

2 OR 3 FRESH EGGS

SALT

1 TABLESPOON BUTTER

GRATED JACK OR CHEDDAR CHEESE OR CRUMBLED GOAT CHEESE

SALSA

1. Warm a skillet large enough to hold a tortilla over medium heat. Add the tortilla when you start to cook the eggs. Keep an eye on the tortilla as the eggs cook and turn it once so that it heats on both sides.

2. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with a few pinches of salt and a tablespoon of water. Melt the butter in a second, smaller pan. Once the butter has ceased to foam, turn the heat to medium low and pour in the eggs. Cook, stirring slowly but constantly, until the eggs are almost as done as you like, then throw the cheese over the top and remove them from the heat.

3. Slide the tortilla onto a plate, mound the eggs on half of the tortilla, and add salsa, if using. Fold in half or roll it up. Eat with warm beans.

Additions to Make a More Substantial Burrito

Sautéed spinach or other greens

Diced, then fried or steamed potatoes

Roasted potato wedges with red chile

Pinto beans doctored with additional chile and Cilantro

Roasted Asparagus with Chopped Egg, Torn Bread, and Mustard Vinaigrette

This rustic asparagus Polonaise is so very good that two pounds aren’t too much. But we’ll go with one pound here (preferably thick asparagus) for those who don’t want leftovers. You can always double the recipe if you do. It’s not hard to polish the whole thing off for dinner.

1 POUND ASPARAGUS, RINSED

OLIVE OIL

SALT AND PEPPER

1 PIECE OF SOURDOUGH OR OTHER COUNTRY STYLE BREAD

1 OR 2 EGGS

The Vinaigrette

1 TEASPOON COARSE MUSTARD

1 TABLESPOON RED WINE VINEGAR

SALT

3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Rinse the asparagus and peel the stems if thick. If thin, snap them off where they break easily, then trim the ends. Toss with a teaspoon or so of olive oil to moisten, season well with salt and pepper, and lay in a baking dish. Roast, turning once every 10 minutes, until tender and colored in places, 25 to 30 minutes.

3. While the asparagus is cooking, put the bread in the oven to crisp, then tear it into small pieces. Put the egg(s) in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. After 1 minute turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let stand for 6 minutes. Drain, then peel and chop.

4. Whisk the mustard with the vinegar and 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, then whisk in olive oil. Taste and correct for tartness.

5. Lay the asparagus on a plate. Cover with the egg, scatter the bread and spoon the vinaigrette over all. Finish with cracked pepper.

Asparagus to Eat All Week

The important thing in the idea of this asparagus salad is to keep the dressing away from the asparagus until you plan to eat it, otherwise the vinegar will turn it an increasingly dull shade of green. Make the same dressing as in the previous recipe, only doubling the amount since you’ll be eating it longer. Put it in a jar so that you can shake it up each time you use it. Or skip the dressing and instead drizzle olive oil and squeeze a lemon over the asparagus.

2 POUNDS ASPARAGUS

SALT

OLIVE OIL

MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE (FROM THE PREVIOUS RECIPE)

1. Rinse the asparagus well and peel the stalks if they are thick; otherwise, snap the stalks where they break first, then trim the ends.

2. Bring a large skillet of water to a boil and add salt. Add the asparagus, or as much will fit comfortably, and cook at a gentle boil until a piece tastes done when you cut it, anywhere from 4 to 8 minutes depending on its size.

3. When the asparagus is done, put it on a clean towel to drain, then put it in a dish and toss it with oil to coat lightly. Cover and refrigerate. When it’s time for that asparagus salad, take what you want to eat, shake the jar of

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