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By Root 583 0

your eggs with crunchy buttered breadcrumbs instead of having them with a piece of buttered toast is a little change that makes a big difference. It can make the most mundane eggs somehow special, whether fried or made into an omelet. Enjoy with a big clump of watercress sprinkled with sea salt and fresh lemon juice if you like.

1 SLICE OF YOUR FAVORITE KIND OF BREAD

BUTTER

2 OR 3 FRESH EGGS, GENTLY BEATEN WITH A FORK

SALT AND PEPPER

The Breadcrumbs: Cut the crusts off the bread and discard. Pulse the bread in a food processor to make coarse crumbs. Melt 2 or 3 teaspoons butter in a small skillet over medium heat, add the crumbs, and stir them around. Cook, stirring occasionally, for probably at least 5 minutes, until they’re crisp and crunchy, then slide them onto a plate.

The Omelet: Season the eggs with a few pinches of salt and some freshly ground pepper. Return the pan to the heat, raise the temperature, add a bit more butter, and wait until the foam subsides. Pour in the eggs, let them sit for a few seconds, then begin pulling the outside into the center, tilting the pan so that the uncooked egg falls back onto the hot surface. When the eggs are cooked to your liking, give the omelet a flip, sprinkle some of the breadcrumbs over the top, then slide the omelet onto your plate, folding it in two as you do so. Add the rest of the crumbs to the top, more pepper if you desire, and sit down to dinner.

Ricotta Frittata with Breadcrumbs

Serves 4

The same crunchy breadcrumbs that enhanced the previous recipe do the same for this frittata. Add a vegetable on the side, such as tomatoes, simmered asparagus, or sautéed mushrooms.

3 EGGS

SALT AND PEPPER

1⁄2 CUP RICOTTA CHEESE

FRESHLY GRATED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH HERBS, SUCH AS PARSLEY, MARJORAM, OR OREGANO

1 SMALL GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED

BUTTER

CRISPY BREADCRUMBS

1. Beat the eggs with a few pinches of salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in the cheeses, herb, and garlic.

2. Melt 2 or more teaspoons butter in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat. When it bubbles and foams, add the egg mixture and lower the heat. Give the pan a shake to make sure the mixture’s not sticking, then cook until set, about 4 or 5 minutes. Slide the half-cooked eggs onto a plate, keeping the cooked side facing down. Set the pan over them, then grasping both pan and plate with a hot pad, flip them over and cook the second side.

3. When done, slide the frittata onto a plate, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs, and serve.

Tomatoes on Toast

This is so quick, warm, and nourishing that it can easily become habit-forming. I’m already making it on a regular basis. Tomatoes on toast are more substantial than, say, a tomato soup with croutons, and lighter than full-blown tomato rarebit with cheese. The toast starts out crisp but turns nice and mushy as you eat—a little like a cheater’s version of papa al pomodoro. Canned diced organic tomatoes work perfectly fine for the months of the year (which is most of them) when good fresh ones aren’t to be had. A 15-ounce can provides for a generous serving for one, leaving extra spoonfuls to stir into scrambled eggs or noodles.

1 (15-OUNCE) CAN DICED ORGANIC TOMATOES

BUTTER OR OLIVE OIL

1 GARLIC CLOVE, PRESSED

YOUR FAVORITE BREAD, TOASTED

SALT AND PEPPER

SUGAR, IF NEEDED

1 TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE OR 2 TO 3 TEASPOONS CREAM OR CRÈME FRAÎCHE

FRESH CHOPPED HERBS, IF AVAILABLE, SUCH AS PARSLEY OR BASIL

A CHUNK OF PARMESAN CHEESE FOR GRATING

1. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat and add the entire contents of the can of tomatoes. Add a dab of butter or a splash of olive oil, and press in the garlic clove. Give it a stir and simmer while you toast your bread.

2. Taste and season the tomatoes with salt and freshly ground pepper. If they’re very tart, add a pinch or two of sugar. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce or 2 to 3 teaspoons cream plus any herbs.

3. Cut the toast into 2 or 3 pieces and lay it in a shallow soup plate.