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Some Variations

Tomatoes on toast invite you to play. Add such things as a smidgen of curry powder, other fresh herbs (tarragon, lovage, dill, or snipped chives), or a spoonful of leftover herb butter. If the tomatoes need a flavor boost, stir in a teaspoon of tomato paste, and if you like cheese with your tomatoes—Gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella, Cheddar—cube some and drop the pieces into the pan. The cheese will soften and ease itself into the tomatoes. If you’re using fresh tomatoes, drop them into boiling water for about 10 seconds, then peel off the skins. Halve them crosswise, pull out the seeds with your fingers, then cut them into dice.

Sautéed Mushrooms for Toast, Polenta, or Pasta

Serves 4

There are a lot of ways to approach something as simple as sautéed mushrooms. For example, you can use olive oil, butter, or both for fat; you can include a few dried wild mushrooms for flavor, or not; you can just buy a bag of sliced white mushrooms or cook with an assortment of mushrooms; you can douse them with a splash of sherry or wine; and finally, you can finish with a touch of cream or sour cream or nothing at all. This version peps up regular white mushrooms with a few dried porcini. But regardless of which little changes you make, these mushrooms are easily prepared and, once you have them, as handy as can be. They can go over toast, polenta, rice, potatoes, or pasta, or in an omelet. An 8-ounce package of mushrooms yields about 1 cup cooked.

1 TABLESPOON DRIED PORCINI, MORE OR LESS

1⁄2 CUP BOILING WATER

1⁄2 ONION

1 GARLIC CLOVE

A DOZEN PARSLEY SPRIGS

1 TABLESPOON BUTTER, OLIVE OIL, OR A MIXTURE

PINCH DRIED THYME

1 (8- TO 10-OUNCE) BAG SLICED MUSHROOMS OR WHOLE MUSHROOMS, SLICED

SALT AND PEPPER

SPLASH OF SHERRY OR WINE

SQUIRT OF TOMATO PASTE, ABOUT A TEASPOON

SPOONFUL OF CREAM OR CRÈME FRAÎCHE (OPTIONAL)

1. Cover the dried mushrooms with the boiling water and set them aside while you dice the onion and chop the garlic and parsley together.

2. Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, thyme, and half the parsley mixture, and give it a stir. Lift the rehydrated mushrooms out of their liquid and add them to the onion along with a few tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the fresh mushrooms and raise the heat. Sprinkle mushrooms with 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, then turn them in the pan. Cook, turning every 30 seconds or so, until browned here and there, about 4 minutes. Add a few splashes sherry or wine, stir in the tomato paste, and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the rest of the mushroom liquid (poured through a fine sieve) and the parsley.

3. Lower the heat and cook less vigorously for about 5 minutes. Taste. Add more salt if needed and season with pepper. Just before you’re ready to serve, stir in a little cream or crème fraîche, if using.

Mushrooms on Toast

Toast a piece of levain bread or ciabatta, then cover it with thin slices of aged cheese, such as Gouda, Gruyère, or Manchego. Set the toast on your plate and spoon the sautéed mushrooms and their juices over the toast. Sprinkle on the remaining parsley mixture and more pepper.

Mushrooms with Tomatoes over Polenta

Follow the recipe for sautéed mushrooms. Once you’ve cooked off the wine, add 1⁄2 cup (about 1⁄2 small can) diced organic tomatoes. Include the juice too—it’s nice to have some broth to moisten the polenta or whatever starchy item you choose to use here. In winter, you might add 1⁄2 teaspoon minced rosemary when you start the onions, or a few pinches dried thyme. In summer, finish the dish with a chiffonade of basil leaves. At any time, end with a fresh grating of good Parmesan cheese.

Mushrooms in Paprika Cream over Egg Noodles

Follow the recipe for sautéed mushrooms. Stir in 1⁄4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream just at the end, long enough to warm it, along with 1⁄2 teaspoon sweet Hungarian or smoked Spanish paprika. Serve the