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We first came across it in Normandy, Brittany and Touraine, and now find it everywhere in France. Look out for Bourride de lotte, Gigot de mer, and dishes of monkfish with mayonnaise. We have eaten Lotte sauce Choron, the fish poached in a court bouillon and served with sauce Choron* and Lotte Normande, poached and served with a Normandy sauce* and mussels. You can prepare monkfish in the same way as Turbot au poivre (p. 436).

Monkfish is beloved of French chefs and housewives because, like sole, it can be partnered by many beautiful sauces, each enhancing the other. Cream* or hollandaise* or tomato* sauces in their variety can turn ½–1 kg (1–2 lb) of monkfish into a feast. And cold, with mayonnaise*, it is one of the best summer dishes I know.

HOW TO CHOOSE MONKFISH

In markets and fishmongers’, it is always sold without its head, and can easily be passed over. The general shape is that of a slightly squashed cone, anything from 30 cm (1 foot) long upwards. The flesh looks milky and smoothly solid rather than flaked, like cod or haddock. In the centre you will observe a single cartilaginous spine. As it tends to be an expensive fish, it is usually sold in steaks cut across the body, but if you can afford it, a tailpiece of 1–1½ kg (2–3 lb) makes an excellent dish (see Lotte en gigot). In my experience the larger fish have the best flavour. I once bought some small tail-pieces, thinking they would be even more delicate. They weren’t, they were rather tasteless. I should have taken warning from the lower price; fishmongers in France know what they are selling. The small bits and pieces sold as joues de lotte – what we should call monkfish ‘knobs’ by analogy with skate ‘knobs’ – are quite pleasant, but again they cannot be compared in flavour with the large steaks.

The reason for the monkfish’s invariably headless state is that this appendage is thought to be too horrifying for the customer’s sensibilities. In fact, it is both curious and interesting, because the first dorsal fin emerges right over the snout, and is prolonged into a supple rod with a tiny ‘flag’ at the end. The fish snozzles its way into the sandy or muddy bed of the sea – the French name baudroie is said to have the same origin as the word boue, meaning mud – invisible on account of its matching colour. It gently waves this plumed rod in front of its capacious jaws, waiting to lure fish into Jonah-like oblivion. It doesn’t stop at fish either. This greedy and well-named angler has been known to trap quite sizeable sea birds, at low water.

LOTTE À L’AMÉRICAINE

This is one of the best way of serving monkfish which, like lobster, has a firm enough flesh to marry well with the strong flavours of the sauce.

Serves 6

1½ kg (3 lb) monkfish

seasoned flour

2 shallots, chopped

3 onions, chopped

1 large clove garlic, chopped

125 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil

90 ml (3fl oz) brandy

generous 450 ml (15 fl oz) dry white wine

375–500 g (¾-1 lb) large ripe tomatoes, peeled, chopped

bouquet garni

1 tablespoon tomato concentrate

1 teaspoon sugar

salt, pepper, cayenne

chopped parsley and tarragon to garnish

croûtons of bread fried in olive oil to garnish

Cut the fish in pieces and turn in seasoned flour. Meanwhile fry the shallot, onion and garlic in the oil until they begin to colour. Add the fish; when it is lightly browned, warm half of the brandy, set it alight and pour it into the pan, stirring the contents about in the flames. When these die down, remove the fish to a warm plate.

Pour the wine into the pan, add tomatoes, bouquet, tomato concentrate, sugar and seasonings. Boil hard to reduce to a well-flavoured sauce – it must not be watery. Allow 20–30 minutes for this.

Return the fish to the sauce and simmer gently until cooked, about 10–15 minutes, adding the rest of the brandy at the same time. Arrange on a hot serving dish, sprinkle with parsley and tarragon, and tuck the croûtons of bread round the edge. This is one of the finest fish recipes.

LOTTE EN BROCHETTE

Monkfish cut