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By Root 971 0

into chunks makes an excellent fish for grilling on skewers. Here are two suggestions. Allow 10–15 minutes cooking time and turn the skewers occasionally. One and a quarter kilograms (2½ lb) of fish should be just enough for six people, but 1½ kg (3 lb) would be better.

(1) Put on the skewers 2½-cm (1-inch) cubes of monkfish with 1 large mussel, a square of unsmoked bacon, and a piece of bay leaf between them. Brush with olive oil. When grilled, serve on a bed of rice, with tomato sauce in which the juices of the grill pan have been incorporated.

(2) Soak for an hour in olive oil 2½-cm (1-inch) cubes of monkfish flavoured with rosemary and oregano, along with pieces of tomato and sweet pepper and onion which has been blanched for 5 minutes in boiling water. Cook on skewers. Serve with butter and plenty of pepper, or with the following very simplified form of beurre blanc: soften, but do not melt, 125 g (4 oz) unsalted butter over warm water; off the heat, add the juice of a lemon, drop by drop, beating all the time as if you were making a mayonnaise. Flavour with salt and cayenne.

LOTTE EN GIGOT

A tailpiece of monkfish does have a similar shape to a leg of lamb – hence the gigot. Here, and in the next recipe, are two variations of this popular French recipe, which can also be used for other firm fish.

Serves 6

1¼-1½ kg (2½–3 lb) tailpiece of monkfish

200 ml (7 fl oz) olive oil

salt, pepper

125 ml (4 fl oz) warm water

1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon parsley, chopped

500 g (1 lb) mushrooms, washed and quartered

125–175 ml (4–6 fl oz) double cream

lemon juice, extra parsley

Put the fish into a presentable, ovenproof dish, pour 90 ml (3 fl oz) oil over it, and season. Place in a hot oven (gas 7, 220 °C/425 °F) for 15 minutes, then turn the heat down to moderate (gas 4, 180°C/ 350°F). Add the water and leave for another 30 minutes, basting from time to time.

Meanwhile make the sauce: cook the tomatoes in 60 ml (2 fl oz) of oil until they are reduced to a thick purée; add garlic and parsley. At the same time, in another pan, cook the mushrooms in the rest of the oil. Season.

When the fish is just done, mix the tomatoes, mushrooms and cream together and pour them over the fish. Stir well, check seasoning, and add lemon juice if required, and return to a hot oven, for 5 minutes (gas 7, 220°C/425°F). Serve in the cooking dish.

GIGOT DE MER À LA PALAVASIENNE

This recipe is from Languedoc. Pique the monkfish with 4 cloves of garlic, cut into slivers, and season it. Make a Ratatouille by cooking 3 chopped onions and 3 chopped cloves of garlic in some olive oil. As they soften, add 3 sweet peppers cut in strips. As they soften in turn, add 250 g (8 oz) each of sliced aubergines and courgettes, and, after 10 minutes, 500 g (1 lb) peeled, chopped tomatoes. Simmer steadily for 45 minutes, uncovered. When you have a well-flavoured, unwatery stew, put it into an ovenproof dish, lay the fish on top and bake in a moderate to fairly hot oven (gas 4–5, 180–190°C/350–375°F) for 30–45 minutes. Turn the fish over from time to time.

MONKFISH FRITTERS WITH SKORDALIA

This is a favourite Greek dish and you can make it with monkfish or any white fish from fresh cod to John Dory; you can also use salt cod which has been well soaked. It is served with Skordalia, the Greek version of ailloli*, the pungent mayonnaise given solidity by the addition of breadcrumbs or potatoes. The first version of the sauce is taken from Elizabeth David’s Book of Mediterranean Food, and the second is a recipe sent to me by a Greek reader.

1 kg (2 lb) monkfish

salt, pepper

125 g (4 oz) plain flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon each of powdered bay leaf and rigani

1 egg

1 tablespoon olive oil

oil for deep frying

Season the fish as required, after drying it. Cut it into six even-sized pieces. Mix the batter ingredients with enough warm water to give a batter consistency – about 8 tablespoons. If you are not sure