Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [115]
Dip the fish pieces in the batter and deep-fry in the oil for about 8–10 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Serve at once with the Skordalia.
(1)
6 cloves garlic
2 egg yolks
150 ml (5 fl oz) oil
60 g (2 oz) fresh white breadcrumbs
60 g (2 oz) ground almonds
lemon juice, parsley
Pound the garlic, add the yolks, then the oil, drop by drop. Stir in the breadcrumbs and almonds. Season with lemon juice and parsley.
(2)
3 or more cloves garlic
5-cm (2-inch) slice of stale white bread, from a small loaf
100 g (good 3 oz) blanched, grated almonds
125 ml (4 fl oz) olive oil
wine vinegar, salt
Crush the garlic well in a mortar. Cut the crusts from the bread, soak it with water and squeeze out any surplus – this makes a thick paste. Add it to the garlic, pounding well, then mix in the almonds gradually, pounding all the time. When you have a homogeneous mixture, start adding the oil drop by drop at first, as for a mayonnaise. Finally sharpen and season to taste with vinegar and salt. The sauce can be made in a blender, or with an electric beater, but the garlic should be crushed by itself before you start, to make sure it is reduced enough to mix completely into the sauce.
MONKFISH IN THORNBURY CASTLE STYLE
Although a great deal of monkfish is caught around Britain, it has taken the French to show us how good it is. Kenneth Bell uses ginger, an ingredient much loved by the English, to nationalize a French method of cooking it.
Serves 4–6 (see recipe)
1 kg (2 lb) monkfish
60 g (2 oz) clarified butter
45 g (1½ oz) ginger preserved in syrup, thinly sliced
30 g (1 oz) carrot julienne
30 g (1 oz) celery julienne
30 g (1 oz) leek julienne
salt, pepper
150 ml (5 fl oz) Dry Martini
about 2 tablespoons Crabbies or Stone’s green ginger wine
300 ml (10 fl oz) Jersey double or whipping cream
small quantity dill or parsley
puff pastry crescents (optional)
Skin and bone the fish. Cut flesh into bite-sized cubes, giving 750 g (1½ lb) weight. Heat butter in a large heavy frying pan. When very hot, stir in the fish, turning it over, then add 30 g (1 oz) of the ginger, the julienne of vegetables, seasoning, vermouth and ginger wine. Cook fast for 5 minutes, turning everything from time to time. Pour in cream. Mix and simmer 5 minutes. Check for seasoning, adding more ginger both sliced and liquid as required, or more vermouth or cream. If there is too much sauce – monkfish can give out a lot of liquid – remove the fish, which must not be overcooked, and boil down the sauce to the right syrupy consistency, then put the fish back.
Divide between four plates, with a light sprinkling of dill or parsley, and a couple of puff pastry crescents which provide the right crisp contrast.
Mr Bell’s clients include many sturdy appetites: I would serve this quantity to six people as a first course.
MONKFISH STEAKS WITH BACON (Darnes de Lotte au Lard)
Steaks – darnes – from several kinds of white fish can be cooked in this way, with slight variations of timing according to their thickness and the texture of the fish. Ling is a favourite in Normandy, but cod, haddock and monkfish are more likely choices in this country. Buy a piece of top-quality smoked streaky bacon, rather than rashers.
The success of the dish depends on careful cooking in the early stages, never letting the butter burn. This way the flavours accumulate and blend.
Serves 6
6 monkfish steaks
salt, pepper
100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter
250 g (8 oz) chopped onion
200 g (7 oz) piece of smoked streaky bacon, skinned and diced
seasoned flour, plus 1 tablespoon plain flour
150 ml (5 fl oz) dry white wine
150 ml (5 fl oz) water
150 ml (5 fl oz) crème fraîche or half soured, half double cream
1 tablespoon wine vinegar
chopped parsley
Season the steaks with salt and pepper and set them aside. In half the butter, soften the onion. When it is tender, raise the heat