Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [118]
METHOD 2
As above, but should the final preparation of the mussels involve wine, shallot, parsley and so on, put these into the sauté pan and heat to boiling before putting in the first layer of mussels. In this way you get a more thorough blend of the flavours, but no liquid is necessary when opening mussels.
METHOD 3
After scrubbing and scraping the mussels, open them like oysters with a thin pointed knife. This is tricky and it is easy to damage the shells, but if you intend to eat the mussels raw as part of a shellfish platter or if you intend to stuff them, this is what you need to do.
Five hundred grams (1 lb) mussels is about the same as 600 ml (1 pt). They provide you with about 90 g (3 oz) mussel meat, sometimes 125 g (4 oz).
CATALAN MUSSEL SOUP
Serves 6
1 kg (2 lb) mussels, scrubbed and scraped
150 g (5 oz) onion, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
375 g (12 oz) tomatoes, peeled, roughly chopped
up to 450 ml (15 fl oz) light fish stock or water
2 large cloves garlic, halved
3 good sprigs parsley
90 g (3 oz) bread, toasted
3 tablespoons brandy
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
salt, pepper
Open the mussels by method i. Meanwhile, stew the onions in the oil until golden. Add the tomatoes and bubble them for a few minutes before pouring in the mussel liquor and 300 ml (10 fl oz) fish stock or water.
Put the garlic, parsley, bread, brandy and cinnamon into a processor or blender and reduce to crumbs. Add to the soup which it will thicken. Dilute, according to taste, with the remaining stock or water. Correct the seasoning. Add the mussels, and serve.
CELERY AND MUSSEL SALAD (Céleri en Salade aux Moules)
If you want to serve this salad as a first course, reduce the quantities of mussels and potatoes by one-third, or more depending on the rest of the meal. I find this dish ideal for Christmas and New Year meals; the fresh flavour cuts into the heavy eating of that time of the year in a vigorous way.
Serves 6
500 g (1 lb) potatoes, preferably Desirée
3 kg (good 5 lb) mussels, opened by method 2
100 ml (3–4 fl oz) dry white wine
1 head celery
300 ml (10 fl oz) mayonnaise
Dijon mustard
4 shallots, chopped or 4 heaped tablespoons chopped onion
3 hard-boiled eggs
chopped parsley
Scrub and boil the potatoes in their skins. Peel and dice them into a bowl while still warm. Meanwhile prepare the mussels as directed, first putting in the shallots or onion and the wine, heat, and leave for 5 minutes. When mussels open, discard the shells and strain the very hot liquor over the diced potatoes. Leave the mussels and potatoes to cool.
Cut the celery into fine slices. Flavour half the mayonnaise with mustard to taste, starting with a teaspoonful. Mix in the celery. Mix the remaining mayonnaise with the cold mussels, drained potatoes and the shallot or onion. Shell and quarter the eggs.
Put the mussel salad in the centre of a large plate. Surrounded it with celery salad and arrange the eggs in a circle between the two. Scatter with parsley. Serve well chilled.
MOUCLADE AU FENOUIL
Serves 6
3 kg (6 lb) mussels, scrubbed and scraped clean
250 ml (8 fl oz) dry white wine
250 g (8 oz) onion, chopped
4 heads fennel, sliced, green leaves reserved
2 cloves garlic, skinned, sliced
150 g (5 oz) butter
salt, pepper, cayenne
125 ml (4 fl oz) single cream (optional)
small triangles of bread, fried in butter
Open the mussels as described in method 2, using the white wine. Take 12 of the mussels and break off half of their shells. Shell the remainder and keep them warm. Strain the liquor.
Meanwhile, soften the onion, fennel and garlic in two-thirds of the butter in a shallow pan. Cover it at first, then half-cover so that you end up with a juicy rather than liquid result. Chop the fennel leaves and set aside.
When the fennel is tender, tip the panful into a blender or processor and purée to a smooth sauce, adding the mussel liquor to