Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [119]
Distribute the shelled mussels between six warm individual pots. Pour on the hot sauce, then add the mussels in the half shells. Dip one corner of each triangle of bread in the sauce, then in chopped fennel leaves, and serve with the stew.
MOUCLADE CHARENTAISE
If ever you are in the west of France, I can recommend a visit to Esnandes, a village to the north of La Rochelle. Go there in the morning to visit the extraordinary fortified church, where you can walk on the battlements, and look out towards the marshy coast and shallow bay where mile after mile of posts or bouchets diminish towards the horizon. Lunch should be taken in the Hôtel du Port – the flavouring there is curry powder instead of saffron, but it works well, being used with a light hand. A Mouclade is the Atlantic coast version of Moules marinière, the sauce being richer and thicker.
Serves 6
3 kg (6 lb) well-scrubbed mussels, small ones if possible
bouquet garni
2 medium onions, chopped
200 ml (7 fl oz) dry white wine
large pinch of saffron
150 g (5 oz) butter, diced
6 shallots, chopped
1 tablespoon plain flour
2 large egg yolks
juice of 1 lemon
100 ml (3½ fl oz) crème fraîche or half soured, half double cream
salt, pepper
1 small bunch of parsley, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
Open the mussels by method 2, using the bouquet garni, onions and wine. Strain off the liquor into a jug and add the saffron. Remove half shells from the mussels and keep them warm in a bowl.
Meanwhile, melt one-third of the butter and cook the shallots until soft, without colouring. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute or so to make a roux. Add the liquor and saffron and simmer for 10 minutes. Beat the yolks with half the lemon juice and the cream(s). Stir in a little of the sauce, then stir the mixture into the rest of the sauce. Season. Remove from the heat. Beat the rest of the butter into the sauce with some of the parsley and the garlic. Pour over the mussels, sprinkle with the last of the parsley and serve with bread and a good white wine.
MOULES À LA POULETTE
This is a favourite French dish. The yellowish-white sauce looks most appetizing with the navy blue shells and orange flesh of the mussels: the flavour is wonderful, even better than the appearance of the dish.
Serves 6
3 kg (6 lb) mussels
ingredients for sauce poulette* using only 125 g (4 oz) sliced mushrooms
Scrub and scrape mussels, and open them by method i. Remove them with tongs to a strainer set over a bowl. Throw away the half-shells, place the mussels in a large bowl, and keep them warm. Strain the mussel liquor carefully and use in making the sauce.
Pour the heated sauce over the bowl of mussels and serve immediately with plenty of good bread to mop up the plates.
MOULES BORDELAISE
Serves 6 as a first course
6 dozen medium to large mussels, opened by method 1
100 g (3½ oz) fresh white breadcrumbs, not too fine
4 tablespoons clarified butter*
4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
4 large plump cloves garlic, finely chopped
extra butter (optional)
Discard all the mussel shells and keep the mussels in a covered dish. This can be done in advance.
Just before the meal, fry the breadcrumbs to a light golden brown colour in the clarified butter. Mix the parsley and garlic, and add to the crumbs. Give them a few seconds more for the garlic to soften slightly, but do not overcook, or the parsley will lose its fresh green colour and the crumbs will turn soggy.
Meanwhile, heat the mussels through gently in another pan with a little butter, if you prepared them in advance. If they have just been opened, this is unnecessary. Scoop the mussels into the pan of crumbs, leaving any liquor behind, and stir them briefly so that everything is well mixed. Divide them between six small warm pots, serve with slices