Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [275]
Vivian, J. G. 466
Vol-au-vent à la normande 395–6
Vraie Cuisine de l’Anjou et de la Touraine (Lallemand) 484
Walewska, Marie 381
Walker, Thomas 443
Walleye 265
Walnut/s:
with Horseradish Sauce 41–2
and Tahina Sauce, with Mussels 247–8
in Tarator Sauce 44–5
Walton, Izaak 123, 270, 271
Watercress Sauce, with Jellied Eel Mousse 137–8
Waters, Alice 56, 319, 497
Watt, Alexander 129
Weakfish 459
Weever 491–3
broiling 493
in Bouillabaisse 520–1
Broiled with Bay Leaves, with Sauce Poivrade 493
in Catalan Fish Stew 502–3
in Seafood Filling 513–14
Welsh Supper Herrings 187–8
West Coast Sole 375
Whiff 375
Whitebait 442–5
deep-fried 445
devilled 445
as English delicacy 442–4
preparing 445
Whitefish 418–19
with Morels 425–6
Whiting 446–54
choosing 449
preparation 447
wind-dried 495
with Aubergines in Two Fashions 453–4
in Baked Stuffed Shad 485–6
with Beurre Blanc 30–1
à la dieppoise 451–2
Eggs, in Homemade ‘Caviare’ 527
Filets vallée d’Auge 450–1
Fillets with Bananas 382
Mousseline 448–50
à la verdurette 452
au vin rouge 453
Whitman, Walt 79
Wickham, Old House Hotel 392
Willan, Anne 325
Wind-dried or wind-blown fish 494–7
Winter Artichoke Salad 291–2
Witch 375
Wolf-fish 457
Wood, Colin 392
Woodforde, Parson 32
Woodger, John 193
World of Cheese (Jones) 246
Yellow Pepper with Grilled Scallops 343
Yellow Perch 265
Zander 265
with a Piquant Sauce 268–9
Zarzuela 502–3
Zimbabwe diet 192
Zola, Emile 114
Zurrukutuna 110
1 Song of Myself.
2 Skillet and kettle mean frying pan and saucepan. An American quart equals 32 liquid ounces, as opposed to the Imperial quart of 40 ounces. Pilot biscuits are ship’s biscuits – cream crackers will have to do instead.
1 L Bertin
1 Since Jane Grigson wrote this, salmon farming has increased phenomenally, to the point where it is now in crisis. Salmon is now too common to sustain the high prices, and there is growing concern about the chemicals used in intensive fish farming and their effects on the environment. There is beginning to be an interest in salmon ‘ranching’, i.e. rearing salmon in huge pens in the open sea, where there is no need to treat them with chemicals to prevent disease. Salmon raised this way are much closer in taste and texture to wild salmon, and many chefs, including the Roux brothers, have given their stamp of approval.
1 Rafael Steinberg, Cooking of Japan, Time/Life, 1970.
1 Author of The Golden Peaches of Samarkand, a study of exotics imported into China in the T’ang dynasty; recommended to anyone who is interested in food, wine, spices.
Table of Contents
CONTENTS
FOREWORD by Caroline Waldegrave
NOTE
INTRODUCTION
CHOOSING, CLEANING & COOKING FISH
CHOOSING FISH
CLEANING FISH
COOKING FISH
COURT BOUILLONS, BATTERS, BUTTERS & SAUCES
COURT BOUILLONS
TWO BATTERS
SAVOURY AND OTHER BUTTERS
HOT SAUCES
CREAM SAUCES MADE WITH CREAM AND BUTTER
EGG AND BUTTER SAUCES
OTHER HOT SAUCES
GOLD SAUCES
† ANCHOVY
BLUEFISH & POMPANO
† BRILL
HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE BRILL
† CARP
TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE CARP
Carpe à la juive
CLAMS
HOW TO PREPARE CLAMS
CLAMS AU NATUREL
† COD, LING, COLEY, POLLOCK, POLLACK, etc.
HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE COD
STOCKFISH, SALT COD OR KLIPFISH, AND LUTEFISK
CRABS
HOW TO PREPARE CRABS
†EELS & ELVERS
WHAT TO DO WITH ELVERS
HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE EELS
† GREY MULLET
HOW TO PREPARE MULLET
† HADDOCK
HOW TO BUY AND PREPARE HADDOCK
FINNAN HADDOCK
† HAKE & SILVER HAKE
TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE HAKE
† HALIBUT ATLANTIC, PACIFIC & CALIFORNIA
HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE HALIBUT
† HERRING
HOW TO PREPARE HERRINGS
SOFT HERRING ROES
SALTED, SMOKED AND PICKLED HERRING
HOW TO SALT HERRINGS AT HOME
† JOHN DORY
HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE JOHN DORY
LOBSTERS & CRAWFISH
HOW TO BOIL A LOBSTER
HOW TO CUT UP LIVE LOBSTER
HOT LOBSTER DISHES
DUBLIN BAY PRAWNS OR NORWAY LOBSTERS OR LANGOUSTINES
† MACKEREL, SPANISH MACKEREL, CERO & KING MACKEREL