Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [6]
15 minutes
3 kg (6 lb)
20 minutes
4–5 kg (8–10 lb)
30 minutes
If the fish is to be eaten cold, ignore these times. Instead, bring the pan slowly to the boil, give it time for a couple of strong bubblings, then remove it from the heat and allow it to cool. Because larger quantities of bouillon take longer to come to the boil and longer to cool down, this method is successful with large as well as small fish.
When cooking salmon, I combine the foil and bouillon methods. The fish is wrapped up in greased foil (use butter for hot salmon, oil for cold, to avoid congealed fat ruining the flavour and appearance), with a seasoning of salt and pepper. The parcel goes into enough cold water to cover it well. If you want it hot, follow the times given above: I use the second method for cold salmon. This is quicker than baking the salmon in the oven, yet it has the advantages of keeping all the flavour and moistness in the fish itself.
1. GENERAL PURPOSE COURT BOUILLON This makes an excellent start to fish soups.
2 carrots, sliced
2 leeks, sliced
or 2 mild onions
2 shallots, sliced
16 lightly crushed black peppercorns
1 heaped teaspoon pickling spices
bouquet garni of appropriate herbs
600 ml (1 pt) water
600 ml (1 pt) dry white wine or dry cider
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Simmer vegetables and spices in the liquid for half an hour. Allow it to cool and cook the fish according to instructions above. If you want to make a fish soup with the bouillon afterwards, tomatoes can be added, with a little sugar; cream and a couple of egg yolks make a final thickening. Fish cooked in the bouillon can be cut up or liquidized to give the soup body – or it can be left whole and served as the next course with bread and butter, or potatoes and butter, in the Breton style. Shellfish such as prawns or mussels can provide a final garnish. In other words a court bouillon can be the start of many good meals, from the homely to the luxurious.
2. SIMPLE COURT BOUILLON For salmon, skate, salt cod.
1 carrot sliced
1 onion, sliced
12 lightly crushed black peppercorns
salt to taste
1¼ litres (2 pt) water
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3. SALTY COURT BOUILLON For crab and lobster, prawns, shrimps, etc.
seawater, plus salt or plain salted water (an egg should be able to float in it)
4. WHITE COURT BOUILLON For turbot, brill, smoked haddock.
600 ml (1 pt) milk
600 ml (1 pt) water
or 1¼ litres (2 pt) milk
1 thick slice lemon
salt, pepper (for smoked haddock, omit salt)
5. WHITE WINE COURT BOUILLON For marinaded herring, mackerel, jellied trout, Écrevisses à la nage (p. 464).
1 bottle dry white wine
3 medium carrots, sliced
4 onions, sliced or 6 shallots
bouquet garni
1 rounded teaspoon black peppercorns
salt
extra flavourings: chilli, aniseed, celery, tarragon
For whole fish, reduce by rapid boiling to half quantity and leave until tepid. Put in fish, bring to the boil, allow two bubblings, then remove pan from heat and leave to cool. For écrevisses and other small shellfish put into boiling reduced bouillon, cook for 10 to 12 minutes and leave them to drain in a colander: for à la nage dishes, serve a little bouillon with the shellfish.
FISH STOCK (Fumet de poisson)
The delightful name of fumet de poisson means scent or bouquet of fish. In reality, it is no more than fish stock, and the good thing about it is that it is simple and cheap to make. There are now fish stock cubes available and some fish stock ready made up by certain manufacturers, but there is nothing quite like one’s own fumet de poisson.
Most fishmongers will give you the necessary trimmings. Ask especially for turbot and sole bones because they have a high proportion of gelatine which improves the texture of the stock; monkfish, whiting, cod and haddock are all suitable. Avoid oily fish debris – such as mackerel, herring, etc.
Makes 2 litres (3½ pt)
1–1½ kg (2–3 lb) fish bones and heads
l onion, sliced