Jane Grigson's Fish Book - Jane Grigson [7]
l carrot, sliced
white part of 1 small leek, sliced
1 stalk celery, sliced
bouquet garni
10 black peppercorns
450 ml (15 fl oz) dry white wine or good dry cider
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
2 litres (3½ pt) water
Put all the ingredients in a large pan, adding the water last. Bring slowly to the boil, skimming until the liquid is clear. Cover the pan and simmer it – fish stock should never boil – for about 30 minutes. Do not be tempted to cook it longer or the stock will taste gluey. Strain the stock through a double-muslin-lined sieve. Salt is not added, since the stock may well need to be reduced if you are making a sauce.
NOTE Any left over can be stored in two ways: either in conveniently sized pots in the freezer or else in the form of a fish glaze that can be kept for weeks in the refrigerator.
To make fish glaze – Strain the stock into a wide, shallow pan and boil it down to a tenth or even a twentieth of its original volume, depending on how concentrated it was in the first place. When the liquid is thick and syrupy, pour it in a little container and cover it when cold. A teaspoonful will add flavour to many fish sauces without you having to make stock.
Aspic Jelly
Leave the strained fish fumet of the main recipe to cool. You will then be able to see how much extra gelatine it requires to achieve a firm set: this will depend on the bones used, the quantity of skin, etc. Clarify with the shell and white of an egg (see ingredients which follow).
To get the jelly to brushing consistency, stand the bowl of fumet in a bowl of warm water until it begins to melt. Brush it over the fish, which should be placed on a wire tray. When the first coat is dry, put decorations in place with a dab of jelly, then brush over again until the desired thickness is obtained. Left-over jelly can be chopped and placed round the fish.
If you don’t wish to make a fish fumet, an ordinary aspic jelly will do instead. Put into a saucepan:
450 ml (15 fl oz) water
90 ml (3 fl oz) white wine vinegar
½ onion, chopped
½ carrot, chopped
½ stalk celery, chopped
rind and juice of ½ lemon
30 g (1 oz) gelatine
crushed shell and white of 1 egg
Bring all the ingredients slowly to the boil, whisking to dissolve the gelatine. A thick white foam will develop on top. Remove from heat when boiling, leave 10 minutes, then strain through a cloth. When the stock is tepid, add either 120 ml (4 fl oz) dry white wine, or 90 ml (3 fl oz) Madeira, Marsala or sweet sherry – these two amounts may be adjusted to taste: the flavour should be strong, not overpowering.
NOTE For coating cold fish, many people prefer the flavour of jellied mayonnaise*.
SHELLFISH STOCK
This robust stock I find handy to have in the freezer, along with more classic fish stocks, as a spicy base for soups and stews. Adjust the quantity of tomato to what you are likely to need – 1 or 2 ripe tomatoes will just help the sweetness without being too identifiable, whereas a medium can or 4 huge ripe tomatoes will give a more definite accent. You can use wine as part of the stock, or 2 or 3 tablespoons of sherry vinegar: on the whole I stick to water – then add reduced red or white wine or a little sherry vinegar when the stock comes into use.
It is prudent to ask the fishmonger in advance to save you lobster, crab and other shellfish debris, as well as the heads and bones of the best white fish, otherwise he will fling them into the dustbin as he prepares his display and may have nothing to give you when you turn up at the shop.
Makes about 3¾ litres (6 pt)
2½ kg (5 lb) mixed shellfish and fish debris
5 cloves garlic, in their skins
2 large onions in their skins, each stuck with 1 clove then quartered
2 medium leeks, sliced
2–4 tomatoes or a medium can (see above)
1 medium to large carrot, coarsely grated
2 outer stalks celery, sliced
30 g (1 oz) parsley
2–3 bay leaves
2–3 sprigs of basil or fennel branches
4 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried