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Saveur Cooks Authentic American - Editors Of Cook's Illustrated Magazine [49]

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and purée until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 2-qt. pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10-12 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and set aside to keep warm.

2. Using a paring knife, cut about ½ inch from the bottom tip of each Anaheim chile. Using a thin knife, scrape out and discard veins and seeds and set the chiles aside.

3. Pour oil to a depth of 2inches into a 6-qt. Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350°F. Add the chiles and cook, turning occasionally, until their skin starts to brown and blister, about 2-3 minutes. Using tongs, lift the chiles from the oil to let drain and transfer them to a baking sheet. Let them cool slightly and then peel and discard skins. Remove pan from heat.

4. Stuff each chile with 1 strip of Monterey Jack cheese. Place ½ cup flour in a shallow bowl and dredge the chiles in the flour, shaking off the excess, and set aside. Whisk the egg whites in a medium bowl until soft peaks form, then add the remaining flour and egg yolk, and whisk to combine, making a batter.

5. Heat oil to 350°F. Working in 2 batches, hold each chile by its stem and dip it into the batter, letting the excess batter drain. Nestle the chile into the frying oil. Cook, turning once, until the chiles are deep golden brown and crisp, 6-8 minutes. Transfer the chiles to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

6. Divide the sauce between serving plates and top each with a fried chile. Garnish with crema, cotija cheese, and cilantro and serve immediately.

Kimchi Pancakes

Anyone who has tried Korean food knows kimchi, the pungent pickled vegetables used both as a condiment and an ingredient in spicy, soulful dishes like these crisp-fried pancakes, made with paechu (cabbage) kimchi and ground pork. The recipe makes about 25 small pancakes, but you can also cook large ones that fill the bottom of the skillet and then slice them into wedges to serve.

¼ lb. ground pork

2 cups chopped cabbage kimchi (paechu)

1 cup flour

½ cup rice flour

6 scallions, minced

1 egg, lightly beaten

10½ tbsp. canola oil Kosher salt, to taste

Serves 4-6

1. Combine the ground pork, kimchi, flour, rice flour, scallions, egg, and 1 cup ice-cold water in a bowl; whisk to combine. Set the batter aside to rest for 10 minutes.


2. Working in 7 batches, heat 1½ tbsp. oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Scoop four 2-tbsp. portions of batter into the skillet and flatten each portion with the back of a spoon. Cook until the edges crisp, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until set, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the pancakes to paper towels and wipe out the skillet after each batch. Repeat with the remaining oil and batter. Serve the pancakes sprinkled with salt.

A World of Kimchi

Though cabbage (paechu) kimchi and daikon (mu) kimchi are the two best-known versions of the food, literally hundreds of other kinds exist. Pictured are nine varieties that hint at the astonishing diversity of flavor, color, and texture that kimchi can possess. 1Tongchimi kimchi, or water kimchi, can be any number of fermented pickles that are often served in their brining water; the version shown contains Asian pear, daikon, scallions, pomegranate seeds, and chiles. 2Uong kimchi is made with woodsy-tasting, crunchy burdock root and is usually aged for just a day or so. 3For muchae kimchi, crisp daikon radishes are shredded into long strands before being fermented in a thick, pungent paste of chile powder and garlic. 4The broad leaves of the herb perilla (also known as beefsteak), which have a distinctive cinnamon-like flavor, are the base for kaennip kimchi, which has a refreshing bite. 5Paechu kimchi—brined cabbage leaves rubbed with a paste of ground chiles, garlic, salted shrimp, anchovy sauce, and scallions and aged in jars—is a staple in Korean households and the most widely available kimchi in Asian markets in the United States. 6Gat kimchi is an intensely flavorful

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