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pickle of mustard leaves and stems that have been fermented with anchovies and glutinous rice paste. 7The big, pumpkinlike squash called rumbo that’s harvested in the fall in Korea is frequently used as the base for a sumptuous, mildly sweet dish called hobak kimchi. 8A kind of Korean wild lettuce called kodulpaegi is the base for this slightly sour kimchi; over time, the firm leaves become soft and pliable. 9Naeng-myun kimchi is a striking, peppery pickle of thin-sliced daikon radishes that have usually been aged for only a few days and are often garnished with scallions and sliced chiles.

Thai-Style Green Beans with Chile and Basil

Tua Kaek Pad Prik Pao

The roasted chile paste called nam prik pao—a pantry staple in Thailand that can be found in most Asian markets in the United States—lends smoky heat and an earthy, salty-sweet flavor to stir-fried green beans.

3 tbsp. peanut oil

8 cloves garlic, roughly chopped

1 lb. green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

3 tbsp. nam prik pao (Thai roasted chile paste, or any jarred Asian chile paste)

1 tbsp. fish sauce

1 cup torn Thai basil leaves

Serves 4

1. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or a skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. When the oil is hot and almost smoking, add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 10 seconds. Add the green beans and stir-fry for 1 minute.

2. Stir in the chile paste, toss to coat the green beans, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. (Sprinkle in a little water if the pan gets too hot and the beans brown too quickly.) Add the fish sauce and basil, toss to combine, and serve.

Zucchini Fritters

Kolokitho Keftedes

On the Greek island of Crete, cooks transform bumper crops of summer vegetables into a wide array of mezedes, or small dishes. These parsley-flecked zucchini fritters can be served hot or at room temperature.

1 lb. zucchini, grated

2 tsp. kosher salt

½ cup minced flat-leaf parsley

½ cup grated Pecorino Romano

½ cup dried bread crumbs

1 medium yellow onion, grated

1 egg, beaten Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Pinch of cayenne pepper Olive oil or canola oil, for frying

Serves 4

1. Mix the zucchini and salt in a strainer; set a weighted plate on top and let drain for about 30 minutes. Transfer the zucchini to a tea towel and squeeze out the liquid. Mix together the zucchini, parsley, cheese, bread crumbs, onions, and egg in a bowl. Season with the pepper and cayenne. Divide the mixture into 12 balls and press the balls into ¾-inch thick patties.

2. Pour oil into a 4-qt. pot to a depth of 2 inches and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 315°F. Working in 2 batches, fry the patties, turning once, until browned and crisp, 5-6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fritters to paper towels to drain. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Small Wonders

The small plates known as mezedes are essential to the Greek way of eating. Served as snacks or appetizers in homes and tavernas, they make a convivial beginning to a meal. They’re also designed to accompany drinks, as it’s frowned upon in Greece to drink without food. (As long as you’re eating, it’s safe to order another round.) Greeks have been eating this way since ancient times; the third-century author Athenaeus, for instance, writes of meals that centered on “a large tray on which are five small plates.” Mezedes can range from humble to fancy. The simplest—oil-cured olives, feta sprinkled with oregano—are known as pikilia, which means “assortment,” and they usually arrive free of charge with any order of spirits, wine, or beer. Some mezedes are regional (like stuffed mussels, a specialty from Thessaloniki), while others are seasonal (like the fava beans and chickpeas you’ll see diners shelling at their tables in spring). Then there are the classics you’ll find always and everywhere: grilled octopus; garlicky dips served with bread; the rice-and-herb-filled grape leaves called dolmades; cheese-and-tomato-laden baked dishes called saganaki;