The Dirt on Clean - Katherine Ashenburg [112]
108 Since Englishwomen: C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes (London: Michael Joseph, 1951), 52.
108 Mary of Cleves: D. Michael Stoddart, The Scented Ape: The Biology and Culture of Human Odour (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 63.
109 the man’s shirt … “ruffled down to his middle”: Willett and Cunnington, History of Underclothes, 53–62, 75.
110 “I work at literature” … “dress himself elegantly”: Jacques Casanova, The Memoirs of Jacques Casanova de Seingalt (London: Chapman and Hall, 1902), 2:141, 145.
110 A French household manual: Vigarello, Concepts of Cleanliness, 15.
111 Many of the Moorish baths … turned tawny—coloured: Crow, Spain, 33,-34, 149.
112 Fernand Braudel: Fernand Braudel, The Structures of Everyday Life: The Limits of the Possible, vol. 1, Civilization and Capitalism 15th to 18th Century, trans. Sian Reynolds and Miriam Kochan (London: Collins, 1981), 330.
112 German, Austrian and Swiss … traditional remedies associated with them: Martin Widman, “Krise und Untergang der Badstube,” Gesnerus 56 (1999): 220–40. (Translated for the author by Harald Bohne.)
114 Thomas Platter: Thomas Platter, Journal of a Younger Brother, trans. Sean Jennett (London: Frederick Muller, 1963), 95.
114 Anne of Austria: De Bonneville, Book of the Bath, 41.
114 Guy Patin: Vigarello, Concepts of Cleanliness, 14.
114 King Henri IV: Vigarello, Concepts of Cleanliness, 12.
115 Louis XIV: Vigarello, Concepts of Cleanliness, 13.
116 But in the Renaissance … “like unto ducks”: Richard Palmer, “‘In This Our Lightye and Learned Tyme’: Italian Baths in the Era of the Renaissance,” in Porter, Medical History of Waters and Spas, 14–22; L. W. B. Brockliss, “The Development of the Spa in Seventeenth-Century France,” in Porter, Medical History of Waters and Spas, 23–38.
117 Fynes Moryson: Moryson, Itinerary, 1:55.
117 Michel de Montaigne: Montaigne, Complete Works, 1063, 1207–08.
117 Italian doctors’ campaign: Palmer, “‘In This Our Lightye and Learned Tyme,’” 21–22; Brockliss, “Development of the Spa,” 26, 30–32, 38, 43.
118 Madame de Sévigné: Letters of Madame de Sévigné, ed. Richard Aldington (New York: Brentano’s, 1927), 2:216–23; FrancesMassiker, Madame de Sévigné: A Life and Letters, letters trans. Frances Massiker (New York: Knopf, 1983), 363.
120 (box) Letters of Madame de Sévigné, ed. Aldington, 1:219–20.
122 Like many visitors to Bath: Celia Fiennes, The Illustrated Journeys of Celia Fiennes 1685-c.1712, ed. Christopher Morris (London: MacDonald & Co., 1982), 44–46.
MARGINALIA IN CHAPTER FOUR
98 Sachs, Renaissance Woman, 29.
100 Burton, Elizabethans at Home, 242.
100 William Ian Miller, The Anatomy of Disgust (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1997), 286, n. 64.
102 The Complete Letters of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, ed. Robert Halsband (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1965), 1:248.
103 E. S. Bates, Touring in 1600: A Study in the Development of Travel as a Means of Education (London: Constable, 1911), 190.
106 Miller, Anatomy of Disgust, 153.
107 Maczak, Travel in Early Modern Europe, 101.
108 Stoddart, The Scented Ape, 63.
111 Classen, Howes and Synnot, Aroma, 71, n. 2.
116 Ivan Illich, H2O and the Waters of Forgetfulness (London: Marion Boyars, 1986), 46.
117 Duchess of Orleans, Elizabeth-Charlotte of Bavaria, Princess Palatine, The Letters of Madame, trans. and ed. Gertrude Scott Stevenson (London: Arrowsmith, 1925), 1:256.
118 Palmer, “‘In This Our Lightye and Learned Tyme,’” 19, n. 28.
119 Platter, Journal, 50–51.
122 Massiker, Madame de Sévigné, 224.
123 Samuel Pepys, The Shorter Pepys, ed. Robert Latham (London: Bell & Hyman, 1958), 925.
CHAPTER FIVE
THE RETURN OF WATER: 1750–1815
125 Lady Mary Wortley Montagu … Although she attributed: Montagu, Complete Letters, 1:312–15, 407; Robert Halsband, The Life of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1957), 68.
127 “How dirty your hands are”: The Habits of Good Society: A Handbook for Ladies and Gentlemen (New York: Rudd & Carlton,