The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [31]
2. Add about 2 inches of water to the bottom of an Asian-style steamer, and bring it to a boil over high heat.
3. Bring the stock, rice wine, and salt to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Pour over the chicken in the bowl. Cover the bowl tightly with a lid, then plastic wrap. Place the wrapped bowl in the steamer and cover. Reduce the heat to medium-low and steam at a brisk simmer for 2 hours. Periodically add boiling water to the steamer to keep a good head of steam.
4. Carefully remove the bowl from the steamer. Uncover the bowl and let cool to room temperature. Cover it again, and refrigerate for 12 hours or overnight.
5. Skim off the solidified fat from the surface of the broth. Transfer the soup to a large saucepan and reheat to simmering. Serve immediately.
Fish and Shellfish
IN MANDARIN, the sound of the word for “fish,” yu, also means “surplus”—that you will never lack for anything. The fish, then, is a symbol of prosperity, and it is always served at birthdays, weddings, and anniversaries.
The Chinese prefer freshwater fish, like pike and carp, because the meat is more tender and flakier than that of ocean fish, but they also eat saltwater fish like sea bass, grouper, and flounder. They prefer their fish small, rather than large, because they believe that smaller fish have more delicate meat. If two people are sharing a whole fish, they will buy or order a one-pound fish. If four people are sharing a fish, they may order two one-pound fish instead of a single two-pound fish. The Cantonese steam fish to retain the sparklingly fresh flavor and texture, while the Shanghainese braise fish in soy sauce and sugar to create a more richly flavored dish. In Sichuan, people braise their fish with lots of chilies and Sichuan peppercorns. Regardless of how the Chinese cook their fish, they prefer to buy only live fish.
THIS BEIJING DISH IS DELICATE IN COLOR, texture, and flavor. The thin squares of fish are cooked for only a few seconds, so they remain milky-white and tender. The silken fish contrasts with the crispness of the snow peas and the water chestnuts, and also with the subtle crunch of the tree ear mushrooms.
Makes 4 servings
Heavenly Fish Fillet
12 ounces skinless sea bass fillet, cut into pieces 2 ½ inches long and 1 inch wide
½ large egg white (beat a whole egg white until foamy and measure out half)
3 teaspoons cornstarch
½ cup (2 ounces) snow peas
4 water chestnuts, each cut into 3 slices
⅓ cup tree ears, soaked in hot tap water until softened, drained
Vegetable oil, for passing through
1 scallion, white part only, trimmed and minced
1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
⅓ cup Chicken Stock (page 70), canned chicken broth, or fish stock
3 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1. Gently mix the fish, egg white, and 1 teaspoon of the cornstarch in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined.
2. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the snow peas, water chestnuts, and tree ears, and cook for 10 seconds. Drain in a colander.
3. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 300°F. Quickly add the fish, one piece at a time. Stirring gently to keep the fish in motion, cook just until it turns white, about 1 minute. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the fish to a colander to drain.
4. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok. Return the wok with the oil to high heat. Add the scallion and ginger, and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the stock, rice wine, sugar, and salt, and bring to a boil. Dissolve the remaining 2 teaspoons corn-starch in 2 tablespoons cold water, and add to the wok. Return the fish to the wok, and add the snow peas, water chestnuts, and tree ears. Stir gently until the sauce thickens,