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AT SHUN LEE, we serve a dish that is similar to this, where the salmon is sautéed in such a manner that makes the fillet look as if it were wrapped in scallions. This version has the same ingredients, requires no special techniques, and tastes just as good. Makes 4 servings

Salmon Fillet with Scallions

⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 pound skinless salmon fillet, cut into 4 pieces

¼ cup rice wine or dry sherry

3 tablespoons double black soy sauce, preferably Koon Chun, or regular soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon cornstarch

6 scallions, trimmed and sliced diagonally into 1 ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons peeled and chopped fresh ginger (¼-inch dice)

¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

1. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add the ⅓ cup vegetable oil and heat until it is hot but not shimmering, about 1 minute. Gently slide the salmon pieces into the wok from the side, so the oil doesn’t splash. Fry the fish for 30 seconds on one side; then turn it over and fry for 30 seconds more for medium-rare. (For medium doneness, cook the fish for 40 seconds on each side.) Using a wide wire-mesh skimmer, transfer the fish to paper towels to drain. Discard the oil and wipe out the wok with paper towels.

2. Mix the rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl until blended. Dissolve the cornstarch in 3 tablespoons cold water in another small bowl. Set both bowls aside.

3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to the wok, and heat it over high heat until the oil shimmers. Add the scallions and ginger, and stir-fry until the scallions wilt, about 1 minute. Stir in the rice wine mixture.

4. Return the fish to the wok and add the white pepper. Add the cornstarch mixture and gently stir-fry until the sauce thickens, about 20 seconds.

5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fish to a serving platter. Spoon the sauce over all. Serve immediately.

IN SHANGHAI, this festive-looking dish is also known as the “squirrel fish,” because when the deep-fried fish puffs up, it has a vague resemblance to a squirrel’s fluffy tail. It is brilliantly colored, glistening with a crimson sweet and sour sauce, and studded with lychees and loquats. Makes 4 servings

Sweet-and-Sour Whole Crispy Red Snapper

Vegetable oil, for passing through

One 2-pound red snapper, scaled and cleaned, with head and tail intact

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

Pinch of salt

1 cup cornstarch, for coating the fish

Sauce

¾ cup ketchup

1 cup distilled white vinegar

1 cup sugar

¼ cup cornstarch

1 red onion, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

5 whole pitted canned lychees

5 whole pitted canned loquats

½ red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, cut into ½-inch dice

¼ cup rice wine or dry sherry

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup thawed frozen baby green peas

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¼ cup toasted pine nuts (see page 28), for garnish

1. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to come about 2 inches up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 375°F. While the oil is heating, prepare the fish: Starting right behind the gill, make four evenly spaced cuts on each side of the fish, cutting down to, but not through, the bone (this will help the fish cook evenly).

2. Sprinkle the fish with the rice wine and the pinch of salt. Spread the cornstarch on a baking sheet or platter. Holding the fish by the tail, dip it in the cornstarch, coating it thoroughly. When the oil is ready, hold the fish by the tail and slide it gently into the wok, lowering it head-first down the side of the wok so the oil doesn’t splash. The oil should bubble in a lively fashion. Fry the fish on one side until golden and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. The fish slices will begin to separate and puff up. Turn the fish over, and fry the other side until golden and crispy, about 3 to 4 minutes.

3. While the fish is frying, begin the sauce. Mix the ketchup, vinegar, sugar, and ½ cup water