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1 tablespoon cornstarch

One ½-inch piece peeled fresh ginger, minced

3 garlic cloves, sliced ⅛ inch thick

2 scallions, white part only, cut into thin 2-inch-long strips

½ cup canned sliced bamboo shoots (cut into thin 2-inch-long strips)

½ cup sliced water chestnuts

½ cup dried tree ears, soaked in hot tap water until softened, drained, patted dry, and torn by hand into 1-inch pieces

½ medium red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, cut into thin 2-inch-long strips

1 ½ tablespoons hot chili paste

1 teaspoon hot chili oil, optional

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1. Combine the pork, egg white, cornstarch, salt, and 1 tablespoon of water in a medium bowl. Cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to come about 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 325°F. Add the pork and stir gently until it turns light brown, about 40 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the pork to a colander to drain. Discard all but 4 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.

3. To start the sauce, mix the vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine in a small bowl, and set it aside. Dissolve the cornstarch in 3 tablespoons cold water, and set it aside.

4. Return the wok to high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, and scallions, and stir-fry until they are fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, tree ears, and bell pepper, and stir-fry until the bell pepper starts to soften, about 30 seconds. Transfer the vegetables to the colander. Add the vinegar mixture to the wok and stir for 10 seconds. Then add the hot chili paste and stir for 10 seconds more. Return the pork and vegetables to the wok, and stir-fry until the sauce comes a boil and thickens, about 20 seconds. Add the hot chili oil, if using, and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the sesame oil and serve immediately.

THIS SIMPLE AND HOMEY CANTONESE dish has a hundred variations. At Shun Lee we top it with salty duck eggs, but it can also be made with preserved sausages, sliced ham, or mushrooms. Since it is a somewhat salty dish, serve it with rice. Makes 4 servings

Steamed Pork Patty with Duck Eggs

1 pound boneless fresh ham or pork butt

2 scallions, white part only, trimmed and minced

4 water chestnuts, minced

1 large egg, beaten

2 teaspoons peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

4 salty duck eggs (see page 6)

1. Cut the pork crosswise into thin slices, then into thin strips. Using two cleavers, one in each hand, mince the pork. (Or pulse the pork strips in a food processor until minced.) Combine the pork with the scallions, water chestnuts, egg, ginger, rice wine, salt, sugar, and white pepper in a medium bowl.

2. Fill the bottom of an Asian steamer with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Choose a heatproof ceramic bowl to fit in the top of the steamer. Place the pork mixture in the bowl, and shape it into a patty about 1 ½ inches thick. Using your fingers, make four round, shallow indentations in the meat patty, an equal distance apart, to hold the duck egg yolks. Gently crack a duck egg, making sure to keep the yolk whole, and place a yolk in an indentation. Pour the white over the patty. Repeat with the other 3 eggs, but discard the whites from the last 2 eggs, or the dish may be too salty.

3. Place the bowl in the top of the steamer, and cover. Steam over high heat until the patty is cooked through and shows no sign of pink, about 20 minutes. Be flexible with the timing, and cook a few minutes longer if necessary. Serve immediately.

THE SECRET INGREDIENT in this Sichuan dish is Ruey Fah Steam Powder, a combination of coarsely ground uncooked rice with ground cinnamon, cumin, star anise, and pepper. McCormick’s Sichuan-style Fen Zheng Rou Seasoning is an acceptable substitute.

The dish looks intriguing, with its fluffy coating of spiced steamed rice, and the flavor is subtle, complex, and savory.