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Makes 2 to 4 servings

Steamed Baby Ribs with Rice Flour

1 pound baby back pork spareribs, cut lengthwise into individual ribs and chopped with a cleaver into 1-inch pieces

1 scallion, white and green parts, trimmed and minced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon hot chili paste

¼ teaspoon salt

One 1.76-ounce package Ruey Fah Steam Powder (see Note)

1. Combine the ribs, scallion, soy sauce, rice wine, vegetable oil, sesame oil, ginger, white pepper, hot chili paste, and salt in a large bowl. Cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

2. Fill the bottom of an Asian-style steamer with 2 inches of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Choose a heatproof ceramic bowl to fit in the top of the steamer. Place the ribs in the bowl, sprinkle with the Steam Powder, and mix well to coat. Place the bowl in the steamer, and cover. Steam with a full head of steam until the ribs are tender, about 1 hour, adding hot water as necessary. Serve immediately.

Note: The secret ingredient is available in different forms; they are all interchangeable, and all will have “Steam Powder” on the label. McCormicks Sichuan-style Fen Zheng Rou Seasoning comes in a 1.42-ounce package, and Ruey Fah Steam Powder usually comes in 1.76-ounce packages. They are interchangeable—the extra .30 ounce won’t make a difference in the dish.

BEIJING, SHANGHAI, AND OF COURSE CANTON all have their versions of a sweet-and-sour pork dish, but it was the Cantonese version, with ketchup and bell peppers, that became so popular in Chinese-American restaurants. Although other sweet-and-sour dishes have replaced this standard, it is still fun to make—and to eat Makes 4 servings

Sweet-and-Sour Pork

12 ounces boneless pork butt

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 large egg

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

½ small red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, cut into 1-inch squares

½ medium onion, peeled and cut into 4 wedges

½ cup ketchup

½ cup sugar

½ cup distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry ¼ teaspoon salt

1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch

4 canned peeled lychees, each cut in half

Eight ½-inch-thick slices fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into pieces 1 inch long and ½ inch wide

1. Cut the pork crosswise into ¾-inch-thick slices. Pound the slices with the flat side of a meat mallet until about ½ inch thick. Cut into pieces about 1 inch square. Mix the flour, ¾ cup of water, and the egg in a medium bowl. Add the pork and mix well.

2. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come about 2 inches up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 375°F. Add the pork, one piece at a time so the pieces don’t splash or stick to each other, and fry until golden brown, about 1 minute. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the pork to a colander to drain.

3. Reheat the oil to 375°F. Return the pork to the wok and fry until crisp, about 2 ½ minutes. Using the strainer, transfer the pork to the colander to drain again. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok. Add the bell pepper and onion, and fry until they begin to soften, about 30 seconds. Using the strainer, transfer the pepper and onion to the colander to drain.

4. Combine the ketchup, sugar, vinegar, rice wine, and salt in a small bowl, and set it aside. Dissolve the cornstarch in ¼ cup cold water in another small bowl, and set it aside.

5. Return the wok with the oil to high heat, add the ketchup mixture, and bring to a boil. Return the pork, bell pepper, and onion to the wok, and then add the lychees and pineapple. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir-fry until the pork is coated with sauce, about 20 seconds. Serve immediately.

IN THE AUTHENTIC SICHUAN VERSION of this dish, pork belly is boiled, sliced, and fried, but lean pork butt works, too. This rendition, inspired by the flavors of Shanghai, has a touch of