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over high heat. Add enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 300°F. Add the chicken and stir gently until it begins to turn opaque, about 30 seconds. Add the mushrooms and water chestnuts, and fry until the surface of the chicken is white, about 30 seconds more. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the chicken, mushrooms, and water chestnuts to a colander to drain. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.

4. Return the wok with the oil to high heat. Add the white part of the scallions, and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and stir-fry for 20 seconds. Add the rice noodles, soy sauce, oyster sauce, chicken, mushrooms, water chestnuts, the green part of the scallions, and the white pepper. Stir-fry until heated through, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.

SOLD AS STREET FOOD, these Sichuan noodles are one of the spiciest recipes in this book, but the heat rises slowly and subtly, with a seductive fieriness about it. The dish calls for two sauces, one cold and one hot, which are mixed with the noodles at the last minute. It is best made with thin fresh or dried Chinese noodles or with fresh or dried Italian angel hair pasta or linguine.

Makes 6 servings

Dan-Dan Noodles

2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or peanut butter

4 tablespoons suimi yacai (see Note), or 2 tablespoons minced Sichuan preserved vegetable, rinsed

2 scallions, white and green parts separate, trimmed and minced

2 teaspoons finely ground Sichuan peppercorns

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon hot chili oil

1 tablespoon Chinese black or balsamic vinegar

5 ounces ground pork

2 tablespoons peeled and minced garlic

¼ cup peeled and minced red onion

2 tablespoons hot bean paste

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

Pinch of ground white pepper

1 pound thin fresh or dried Chinese egg noodles or thin Italian pasta

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

½ cup Chicken Stock (page 70) or canned chicken broth

¼ cup coarsely chopped salted roasted peanuts (crush in a zippered plastic bag under a rolling pin so the peanuts are not too finely chopped)

10 cilantro sprigs

1. To prepare the cold sauce, whisk the sesame paste with ¼ cup hot tap water in a large serving bowl until smooth. Add 2 tablespoons of the suimi yacai (or 1 tablespoon of the Sichuan preserved vegetable), and mix. Add half of the scallions greens, 1 teaspoon of the Sichuan peppercorns, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, and the sugar, hot chili oil, and vinegar. Mix well, and set the sauce aside.

2. Organize the ingredients for the hot sauce in small bowls on a tray: Place the ground pork and the remaining scallion greens in separate bowls. Mix the white part of the scallions with the garlic, red onion, hot bean paste, and the remaining suimi yacai and 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns in a small bowl. Mix the rice wine, remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and white pepper in another small bowl. Set the tray aside.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook until tender, about 3 to 8 minutes, depending on the type.

4. While the noodles are cooking, prepare the hot sauce: Heat a large wok over high heat. Place the tray of ingredients near the stove. Add the vegetable oil and heat until shimmering. Add the pork and stir-fry, breaking up the meat with a spoon, until it loses its raw look, about 30 seconds. Add the garlic mixture and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the rice wine mixture and stir-fry for 10 seconds more. Add the scallion greens and the sesame oil, and stir-fry for 5 seconds. Remove the wok from the heat and keep the sauce warm.

5. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a small saucepan, and add it to the bowl with the cold sauce. Mix until blended. Drain the noodles and add them to the cold sauce. Pour the hot sauce on top of the noodles, add the peanuts, and mix. Garnish with the cilantro, and serve immediately.

Note: Suimi yacai, also called suomi yaci, is a dried vegetable that comes packaged as tiny,