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The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [70]

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dark flakes. It adds smokiness to the dish, and is available at well-stocked Asian markets. Sichuan preserved vegetable is a good substitute.

IS THERE A CHINESE RESTAURANT TODAY that doesn’t offer Cold Sesame Noodles? When the dish was introduced on the Shun Lee menu in 1965, Chinese sesame paste, the main ingredient, was difficult to find—so we used peanut butter, which it resembles. With the crunchy topping of bean sprouts and slivered cucumbers, these cold noodles are ideal for a summer meal. Makes 4 servings


Cold Sesame Noodles

8 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles or linguine

2 heaping tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or peanut butter

1 scallion, white part only, trimmed and minced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese black or balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon hot bean paste

1 teaspoon hot chili oil

1 teaspoon sugar

½ cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into thin 2-inch-long strips

¾ cup bean sprouts

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook until tender, about 3 to 8 minutes, depending on the type.

2. Meanwhile, to prepare the sauce, mix the sesame paste with 2 tablespoons of hot water in a serving bowl. Then add scallion, garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, rice wine, hot bean paste, hot chili oil, and sugar, and whisk until smooth.

3. Drain the noodles, and rinse them under cold running water until they are cold. Drain thoroughly. Add the noodles to the bowl and mix with the sauce. Garnish with the cucumber and bean sprouts, and serve immediately.

YANGZHOU, A CITY NORTH OF SHANGHAI, is famous for fried rice and fried noodles, as well as Lion’s Head with Cabbage. Fried rice and fried noodles are traditionally studded with ten different ingredients, more or less. Our version is slightly scaled down, but you still get tidbits of various flavors in every bite. And there is nothing to keep you from adding more ingredients (water chestnuts, baby corn, snow peas, and sugar snap peas are a few suggestions) to reach ten ingredients if you like. Makes 4 to 6 servings


Sausage, Shrimp, and Chicken Fried Rice

One 2-ounce Chinese sausage

3 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, minced with a cleaver or heavy knife or in a food processor

2 large eggs, plus 1 large egg white (beaten)

1 teaspoon cornstarch

½ teaspoon plus a pinch of salt

Vegetable oil, for passing through

⅓ cup peeled and minced onion

2 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and minced

3 tablespoons thawed frozen baby green peas

2 ½ cups cooked white rice (see page 237)

Pinch of ground white pepper

1. Fill the bottom of an Asian-style steamer with an inch or two of water, and bring it to a boil over high heat. (you can also use a collapsible Western-style steamer in a large saucepan.) Put the Chinese sausage on a plate, place the plate in the steamer, cover, and steam until the sausage is heated through, about 10 minutes. Transfer the sausage to a cutting board and slice it diagonally into ½-inch-thick pieces.

2. Combine the shrimp, chicken, egg white, cornstarch, and the pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Mix well, and set aside.

3. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 300°F. Add the shrimp and chicken, and stir gently until they turn white, about 45 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the shrimp and chicken to a colander to drain. Discard all but 4 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.

4. Return the wok with the oil to high heat, and heat until the oil is shimmering. Beat the whole eggs in a small bowl, and add to the wok. Scramble the eggs until they are quite firm and not runny, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a plate. Return the shrimp and chicken to the wok, and add the onion and the scallions. Stir-fry until the scallions soften, about 15 seconds. Add the sausage and peas, and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Add the rice, white pepper, and remaining

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