The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [7]
ROCK SUGAR. These large, hardened amber crystals, made from a mixture of unrefined sugar and honey, are used in braised or red-cooked dishes. Place the crystals in a plastic bag, or wrap them in a piece of cloth, and then coarsely crush them with a meat mallet or a cleaver. If you can’t find it, substitute a mixture of equal amounts of white and brown sugar.
RUEY FAH STEAM POWDER. This mix of ground rice with spices (cinnamon, cumin, star anise, and pepper), found in small, inexpensive packets, is used to coat steamed meats. McCormick makes a version labeled “Fen Zheng Rou Seasoning.”
SICHUAN PEPPERCORNS. Rust-red Sichuan peppercorns are not really peppercorns, but the berries of another shrub. They have a mentholated spiciness that is totally unique—use too much and it will temporarily numb your mouth. Sichuan peppercorns were banned from the United States for a few years when it was suspected that they might carry a plant disease, but the ban has happily been lifted.
STAR ANISE. A star-shaped pod with six to eight points, each enclosing a dark brown seed, star anise is added whole to infuse braised dishes. Ground, it is an ingredient in five-spice powder. Although it has a licorice-like flavor, it is unrelated to both licorice and anise; it is actually the dried flower head of a Chinese magnolia tree.
THAI KITCHEN TOM YUM HOT AND SOUR SOUP BASE. Thai soups have a lot of ingredients, and I find it easier to use this high-quality product rather than measure out small amounts of spices. The soup base includes Thai chilies, lemon-grass, onion, tamarind, sugar, dried shrimp, and other ingredients. It is used in the Hot and Sour Bouillabaisse.
Noodles and Wrappers
BEAN CURD SHEETS. Sold fresh or frozen, these very large (about 30 inches in diameter), round beige sheets are also called bean curd skins. They are made by heating soy milk until a skin forms; the skin is lifted off and dried on mats. They serve as a skinlike wrapping for a variety of savory fillings, especially Vegetable “Duck” Pie.
BEAN THREADS, DRIED. Used in the Beijing Lamb Stew recipe, these “thread” noodles are actually quite wide—they look like stiff, wrinkled ribbons of gold-yellow parchment. Don’t confuse them with very thin mung bean threads. Sometimes the label will include an illustration of yellow soybeans, which tells you that you have the right item. They need to be soaked in hot water before using.
CHINESE NOODLES. You’ll find wheat-flour noodles, both dried and fresh, in Asian markets. Linguine is a good substitute for the dried variety. In either case, the noodles must be boiled before use. The fresh noodles will take just a few minutes; for dried, follow the suggested cooking time on the package.
DRIED RICE FLOUR NOODLES. Also called rice vermicelli or rice sticks, these hard, white noodles, which come in a range of thicknesses from very thin to wide, must be soaked in warm water before using. Do not boil them. Deep-fried unsoaked noodles will puff up like a white bird’s nest and are used for a crunchy garnish.
DUMPLING WRAPPERS. These round, ready-made wrappers are sometimes called gyoza wrappers and are sold frozen or in the produce department of Asian and Western markets. If you are near a Chinese community, you will find fresh wrappers, which are slightly larger and more pliable than the supermarket variety. If you don’t use an entire package, the leftovers can be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Chop them up and add them to soups, if you aren’t making more dumplings. Twin Marquis is a good brand.
MUNG BEAN FLOUR NOODLES. Made from the starch of the mung bean, these thin, clear dried noodles must be soaked in hot water before using. After draining them, you may prefer to snip them into more manageable portions with kitchen scissors. They are also called cellophane noodles, bean vermicelli, long rice, sai fun, and bean threads. They come in packed in bundles, usually with eight 2-ounce portions to a bag.
PANCAKES. Sometimes labeled Peking or Mandarin pancakes, you’ll want these for when you