The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [8]
SPRING ROLL WRAPPERS. Used to wrap fillings for deep-fried spring rolls, these paper-thin wrappers fry into a shatteringly crisp texture. Do not confuse them with the thicker and much inferior egg roll wrappers. Wei Chuan makes good spring roll wrappers.
WONTON SKINS. These square wrappers, made of wheat flour, make quick work of preparing homemade wontons. Asian grocers are likely to carry fresh ones; look for the frozen variety if you don’t see them in the produce department of your supermarket. The unstuffed wrappers can be frozen; or you can freeze stuffed wontons. Leftover wrappers can be stored just like dumpling wrappers.
Equipment
WHEN DISCUSSING CHINESE COOKING UTENSILS, the dialogue must begin with the wok. Its half-dome shape gives it many uses as a skillet for stir-fries as well as a pot for braises and deep-frying. The wok has a larger cooking surface than a skillet and holds heat beautifully. The bottom of a wok can be flat or round. A 14-inch-diameter, flat-bottomed wok is by far the best choice for most home cooks, as it will sit directly on a gas or electric burner and the size will accommodate a good quantity of food. Round-bottomed woks, while traditional, require a collar or ring over the burner to hold the wok, and this makes for dangerously shaky cooking on most stoves. When you purchase your wok, don’t forget to get a lid, which is often sold separately.
While there are easy-to-care-for stainless-steel and nonstick woks, the classic model is made of spun steel or cast iron. While this kind of wok conducts heat extremely well, it requires seasoning before its initial use and special care in washing and drying. To season a new spun-steel or cast-iron wok, wash it well with an abrasive cleaner in hot soapy water to remove the factory residue. This is the last time any soap or cleanser will touch the wok! Dry the wok with a towel, and heat it on the stove over medium heat to dry it thoroughly. Turn off the heat, add 2 tablespoons of flavorless cooking oil, and rub the oil over the entire interior of the wok with paper towels. Heat the wok over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the metal to soak up the oil. Then wipe out the wok with clean paper towels, which will become dirty from picking up more factory residue. Repeat the oiling, heating, and wiping procedure a couple more times, until the paper towels come away clean. The wok is now ready to use.
When cleaning this kind of wok after each use, never wash it with soap and water, which will remove the cooking oils. You want these oils to build up to form a natural nonstick surface. To clean it, wipe out the food clinging to the interior of the wok, using a wire scrubber, and rinse the wok well with hot water. Then heat the wok over high heat for a minute or so to sterilize it and to ensure that it is thoroughly dry. Let it cool and store it. It is important to dry the wok thoroughly to avoid rusting. If the wok does rust, or if it develops a sticky coating, repeat the “oil, heat, and wipe” seasoning process. Remember, the more you use a wok, the more seasoned it will become, and the less likely it will rust. Get in the habit of using it for Western-style cooking, too, for dishes such as scrambled eggs or a side dish of stir-fried vegetables.
There are two other types of woks available to Western cooks who may find the care of a classic wok daunting (even though it is quite easy). Pricey polished stainless-steel woks with flat bottoms are sold at kitchenware shops. They are shiny and beautiful but lack the character of a traditional wok, and they are heavy too. You will also find flat-bottomed woks with nonstick interiors, but most cooks feel that the coating inhibits browning during stir-frying. Remember that scores of millions of people cook in plain spun-steel or cast-iron woks every day, and